- 斯瓦特贝格狩猎保护区- 景点攻略Swartberg Game Reserve
- 自然风光
- 5 评论
深入大卡鲁旷野：南非斯瓦特贝格狩猎保护区实地指南
斯瓦特贝格狩猎保护区（Swartberg Game Reserve）位于南非西开普省奥茨胡恩北部，距离市区约35公里。这片占地约3000公顷的私人领地紧邻世界自然遗产斯瓦特贝格山脉，以特有的开普山斑马和壮观的折皱山脉景观闻名。如果你已经厌倦了商业化严重的国家公园，这里的大卡鲁荒原气息和独特的半沙漠生态会给你带来完全不同的观感。
藏在世界遗产阴影下的私家荒野
选对营地是成功的一半
斯瓦特贝格狩猎保护区并不是那种可以随便开车闯入的大型公园，它更倾向于提供一种私密且精准的荒野体验。大多数人会选择住在奥茨胡恩（Oudtshoorn）附近的精品旅馆，或者直接入住保护区内的生态小屋。从这里出发，你面对的是超过3亿年地质历史堆叠出来的红色岩层。很多自驾游客会走马观花地翻越山口，却错过了保护区深处那些只有四驱车才能到达的隐秘水源地。建议在预订时确认是否包含傍晚的游猎行程，因为当夕阳斜射在带有铁锈色的砂岩上时，整个保护区的色彩饱和度会达到顶峰。
三千公顷的灌木丛实验室
这片保护区的海拔跨度极大，从山谷的干旱灌木丛一直延伸到高处的凡波斯（Fynbos）植被区。虽然它的面积只有约3000公顷，在南非动辄万顷的保护区中不算大，但其微型气候非常多样。你会在不到一小时的车程内经历从满地多肉植物到高山草甸的转变。这种地貌差异决定了动物的分布极其规律，向导通常会带你先在低洼地寻找长颈鹿，再向高海拔地区爬升去搜寻那些喜欢岩石的跳羚。这种阶梯式的观察方式比漫无目的地在大草原上乱晃要有意思得多。
驱车游猎与山地越野的真实体验
寻找濒危的开普山斑马
来这里如果不看开普山斑马（Cape Mountain Zebra）就算白来了。这种斑马和你在克鲁格或肯尼亚看到的普通斑马完全不同，它们体型更小，腹部没有条纹，而且性格更孤僻，喜欢在崎岖的斜坡上活动。目前全球野生数量非常有限，而斯瓦特贝格正是它们的重要栖息地之一。说真的，当你看到这些斑马在坡度超过45度的岩石间如履平地时，你就会理解为什么它们进化出了更硬的蹄子。清晨六点半出发时，山里的气温往往只有个位数，冷到需要抱着热水袋，但当你看到第一群斑马在晨雾中现身，那种旷野的原始感会让你觉得早起完全值得。
翻越海拔一千五百米的砂岩断层
斯瓦特贝格山口（Swartberg Pass）是保护区的天然背景墙，这条修建于1888年的碎石路全长约27公里，最高点海拔达到1583米。虽然保护区的驱车游猎主要在私有土地进行，但向导通常会带你靠近这段由传奇工程师托马斯·贝恩（Thomas Bain）亲手打造的奇迹。坐在开放式越野车的后排，你可以清晰地看到那些扭曲、折叠的石英岩层，那是亿万年前地壳变动的证据。这里的路况非常考验车技，石块在车轮下嘎吱作响，这种颠簸感是坐在密闭空调大巴里永远体会不到的。一定要记得带一件挡风性能好的外套，即便是在南非的夏季，山口的风也足以让你领教大自然的威力。
常见问题
斯瓦特贝格狩猎保护区什么时候去最好？
建议选在5月到8月的南非冬季，虽然清晨气温可能降至5摄氏度以下，但此时山顶常有积雪，空气通透度最高，最适合拍摄斯瓦特贝格山口的壮观地层。夏季（11月至次年2月）虽然气温常超过35摄氏度，却是观察雏鸟和新生幼羚的好时机。
保护区里能看到非洲五霸吗？
这里并不是典型的非洲五霸（Big Five）保护区，主要保护对象是开普山斑马、大羚羊和长颈鹿等卡鲁特色物种。由于地理环境属于崎岖的山地，这里没有大象和狮子，如果你追求的是顶级食肉动物的猎杀场面，建议去更东边的伊丽莎白港附近或克鲁格国家公园。
自驾轿车可以直接进入游猎区吗？
游客可以将轿车停在营地或接待中心，但深入保护区内部必须乘坐特制的四驱越野车。由于地形涉及大量坡度极大的碎石路和涉水路段，普通轿车极易底盘受损或打滑。建议参加由保护区向导带领的驱车游猎，费用通常包含在住宿费中或约为每人几百兰特。
游玩这个保护区需要准备什么特殊装备？
最重要的是防风保暖衣物和防晒霜，大卡鲁地区的紫外线极强，即便在冬天也会被晒伤。另外建议带一个倍率在8x42左右的望远镜，因为山地动物有时会出现在对面的山梁上，肉眼很难看清。如果打算自驾翻越山口，请确保油箱是满的，因为山口周边20公里内没有任何加油站。
斯瓦特贝格狩猎保护区 用户评价
emmanuel depoorter - 5
One year ago and still in our memries.incredible expérience.hi to Nanou girafe.👍😉
Bianca cape it - 5
Magical landscapes, a place that I still see when I close my eyes and remember it’s serenity. Looking forward to returning soon! Peggy & Craige, thank you for connecting us to the wild 🦒👌🏼✨
Jonathan Beeton - 5
Great experience at this picturesque and large reserve in the foothills of the Swartberg mountains. We did a 1.5hr drive with a Giraffe walk, which we thoroughly enjoyed. Our guide was knowledgeable and talked about the characteristics of the buffalo and the giraffe as well as the rare Cape Mountain Zebra which they have there and was happy to be able to see. It's nice to see places like this that are able to buy up farm land and return it to a relatively natural state and you're helping make that possible by visiting here. Great to be able to get out of the vehicle and walk around a bit -but the giraffes are wild, so don't think you'll be walking right up next to them and then come here and complain when you can't.
George Skaris - 5
Best tranquil place eva. Giraffe walks are amazing, call Craig. Its a must do
Daria Chumachenko - 5
Big thank you to Craig and Peggy for organizing game drive followed by the walks with giraffes. Place was not supposed to be open on 3 Jan 2020 as we read on the website but we decided to phone them anyways in the morning and they were very gracious to organize the tour for us. They shared very detailed directions how to get there and we didn’t have any issue to get there. Tip - Pls follow their directions and not the one google maPs Suggests! So the ride over property starts with an intro of the land (apparently it’s quite young, only 20 years), importance of conversation and why it’s a hot topic in SA and worldwide in general. Then we moved to the reserve and saw different types of antipopes, wildebeest, Buffalo, birds, and obviously giraffes. Once we spotted these beautiful gracious animals we stopped around 700 meters and walked to probably 100 m away from them and hid in the shadow of the tree. Apparently giraffes have bad eyesight so they were looking at us without running away. We’ve seen 9 of them they literally on the display, 7 grown ups and 2 baby calves. It’s a magnificent animal and Craig gave us lots of interesting insights about them and conservation achievements. If you are lucky you can even see a leopard but they are hard to spot + They are usually active at night. Worth taking binoculars (even though they provide one pair for a vehicle) and good camera but this advice is pretty much for all the game drives Bonus : on the way back follow the dirt road (if the car allows). It’s very scenic and picturesque, we also spotted a jackal crossing the road
