姆蓬戈野生动物保护区(Mpongo Private Game Reserve)坐落在南非东伦敦(East London)西北方向约35公里处,是这片海岸线附近难得的一处自然宝库。占地大约3500公顷的保护区由起伏的丘陵、深邃的河流峡谷和茂密的灌木丛组成,比起克鲁格那种一望无际的平原,这里的地貌更有层次感。作为南非东部著名的非疟疾游猎区,它对那些不想折腾打针吃药,或者带着老人小孩出行的家庭非常友好。
从东伦敦机场开车出来,走N6公路大约40分钟就能直接抵达保护区大门。一进大门,空气里的海盐味就被干燥的泥土和野草香气取代了。这里的名字取自当地的姆蓬戈河(Umpongo River),在科萨语(Xhosa)里,这条河有着特殊的历史意义。虽说保护区规模不算顶级,但在这一方天地里,生态的多样性确实让人意外。
来姆蓬戈的人大多是冲着非洲猛兽来的。虽然这里没有凑齐传统的非洲五霸(犀牛相对少见),但大象、狮子、水牛和河马的能见度非常高。这里的游猎体验很讲究运气,尤其是看狮子。很多时候狮子会躲在茂密的河谷灌木里,全靠向导凭借脚印和空气里的气味去追踪。这种等待和突如其来的偶遇,才是野外游猎最迷人的地方。
说到大象,姆蓬戈有一小群常驻的“原住民”。它们有时会大摇大摆地横在巡游车的小道上,或者在午后去 Indlovu Lodge 附近的泳池边凑热闹。这里的地形导致大象的活动空间比较立体,看着这些巨兽在陡峭的山坡上灵巧地行走,这种画面感和在平原上观察完全不同。除此之外,长颈鹿、斑马、蓝角马和各类羚羊也是这片土地的常客,它们通常成群出现在开阔的高地草场上。
如果你是个观鸟爱好者,这里简直是天堂。保护区内记录在册的鸟类超过250种。清晨六点左右,当你还在抱着厚外套坐在开敞式游猎车里瑟瑟发抖时,林间的鸟鸣声已经响成一片。这里还和濒危野生动物信托基金合作,成功重新引入了在当地绝迹已久的红嘴牛椋鸟(Red-Billed Ox-Pecker)。这种小鸟总喜欢停在水牛或长颈鹿背上抓虫子吃,是这里生态修复成功的一个缩影。
姆蓬戈的驱车游猎(Game Drive)一般持续2到3个小时。建议选清晨或者黄昏的场次,因为那个时间段动物最活跃,光线也最适合拍照。向导会带你在颠簸的土路上飞驰,中间通常会有一个停靠点,大家下车喝杯咖啡或南非特有的路易波士茶,就着小饼干聊聊刚才看到的景象。这种片刻的宁静,让人感觉整个人都融入了荒野。
吃饭和休息的地方首推胡伯塔餐厅(Huberta Restaurant)。这个餐厅的名字大有来头,它是为了纪念南非历史上最著名的旅行河马胡伯塔(Huberta)。餐厅建在一个巨大的水塘边,露台视野极佳。你坐在这里切着牛排的时候,可能几米外的水里就有一群河马在打喷嚏、喷水。那种一边用餐一边看动物“吃播”的体验,在东伦敦周边很难找到替代品。
住宿方面,保护区提供了好几种风格。胡伯塔小屋(Huberta Lodge)更有南非传统的厚重感,而河流小屋(River Lodge)则更靠近水边,晚上能听到潺潺的流水声。这里的夜晚非常安静,除了远处偶尔传来的狮吼或者昆虫的鸣叫,几乎没有任何现代文明的噪音。在火炉旁喝杯红酒,看着头顶那片透亮的银河,这才是南非旅行的正确打开方式。
姆蓬戈位于南非东开普省的非疟疾地带,不需要服用任何抗疟药物。对于孕妇、老人以及计划前往海边顺便游猎的亲子家庭来说,这里是比北部克鲁格公园更安全、更便捷的选择。
非常方便,保护区距离东伦敦市中心大约35公里,全程路况良好。即便不在这里住宿,也可以作为一日游的目的地,开车不到一小时就能从城市的海滩切换到非洲荒野。
建议至少提前一天预约,尤其是周末和旺季。单次驱车游猎时长约2至3小时,每天分为上午、下午和夜间场次,每人费用大约在450到600兰特左右,具体价格建议出发前查看官网最新信息。
虽然姆蓬戈拥有狮子、大象和水牛,但这里并没有集齐完整的“五霸”。狮子通常生活在特定区域以确保安全,如果你的目标是打卡全部五霸,这里可能规模略小,但作为近距离观察和摄影的目的地,它的信息量和出片率非常高。
Lauise Caldwell Really enjoyed our game drive. Lots of birds to see also including a majestic crowned eaglet! They have a resident nest there. We were also treated to drinks and a snack and our guide was very knowledgeable. It is a little pricey and they do not have lion (they did previously) but they do have buffs and elephant and it's overall just enjoyable being in nature.
Bucy Dyan I had an amazing time there. Pity l did not see many of the animals they have there, they were hiding during the game drive😭. Their food was amazing, we had a 3 course buffet😊❤️ cooked to perfection.
Cindy vollenbroek What a wonderful Easter spread. Such a great outing. Short drive out of East London. They entertained the kids with an Easter hunt with amazing prizes. Staff were helpful and friendly.
Marie Viljoen We were there for a conference. Im of the opinion that it is not suitable for a conference. Travelling from rooms located not at the conference room made it difficult to quickly access your room if needed. Some rooms one needs to drive with an open 4x4 vehicle to and from rooms to reception and restaurant. Some of our ladies had difficulty to get on and out of the vehicle. Once again not for conference members dressing more formal. The rooms do not have airconditioners and it was exceptionally hot. Very uncomfortable. The rooms are pretty and neat. The food was average. The breakfast was great. Very beautiful place but not for conference. The road to the Game Reserve is really, really bad. The ladies travelling there were afraid with the condition of the road and the game reserve is in a remote area. Im quite sure it is a great place to go for families and groups of men, except for the lack of airconditioners.
tessa vernstrom Had been at the premier hotel in East London for a conference and had booked a few extra days. The Mpongo resort was able to transfer my booking to them. They provided transport to and from, and I got what I’d think is one of the nicest suites or a private chalet by the river with lounge room and big king size bed and 180 deg pano windows. Meals were good. Staff was very friendly and helpful. Chantal the ranger was great and knowledgeable. And animals would come up right in the back patio or front door. Thanks for the great stay