位于南非伊丽莎白港(Gqeberha)火车站出口处的钟楼纪念碑(The Campanile)是这座港口城市的视觉支柱。它始建于 1923 年,最初是为了纪念 1820 年英国定居者登陆南非 100 周年。这座红砖砌成的方形塔楼高度达到 51.8 米,静静守护着繁忙的阿尔哥亚湾(Algoa Bay)。无论是刚下火车还是自驾进入市区,你很难不被这道挺拔的轮廓吸引。对旅行者来说,这里不仅是俯瞰港口全景的最佳观景台,更是连接旧殖民历史与现代民主精神的枢纽。
钟楼的设计师 W. J. McWilliams 当年仿照了意大利式钟楼风格。早年间它更多代表着单一的定居者历史,但这种印象在 2017 年耗资约 1800 万兰特的翻修中彻底改变。现在的钟楼内部设有多个艺术画廊和展览空间,展示着纳尔逊·曼德拉海湾(Nelson Mandela Bay)更具包容性的故事。在塔顶,原本 23 口的大钟琴被扩充为 25 口,总重量接近 17 吨。这些重约数百公斤至数吨不等的铜钟通过电子系统控制,不仅能演奏经典乐曲,还增加了具有南非本土特色的曲调,钟声传遍周边的港口区。
翻修后的钟楼引入了名为鬼魅之钟(Ghost Bells)的互动装置。当你站在钟楼里,脚下的控制台和 LED 灯光系统会与上方的实物大钟同步。访客按下控制台琴键时,对应的灯光会亮起,即便不具备专业的敲钟技术,也能直观地感受到钟琴运作的韵律。这种将 100 年历史的传统机械与现代灯光技术结合的体验,在南非甚至整个南半球都非常罕见。
进入钟楼后,你可以选择传统的挑战方式:攀爬 204 级台阶。虽然台阶不算太陡,但随着海拔升高,风声会从狭窄的窗口透进来,那种历史的厚重感会扑面而来。值得留意的是第 67 级台阶,那里镶嵌着一枚银色纪念牌。这是著名的 67 号路线(Route 67)艺术之旅的起点,象征着曼德拉为南非民主奋斗的 67 年时光。不少人会在这里停留片刻,低头看看那块锃亮的金属牌。
如果不打算消耗体力,2017 年新增的观景电梯是救星。这部全景电梯通体透明,能让你在上升过程中看清塔内错落的有色玻璃和钢架结构。到达 50 米高的观景层后,你会看到一个向外悬挑的玻璃窗。站在这块不锈钢包边的观景舱里,脚下是车水马龙的斯特兰德街(Strand Street),正前方则是深蓝色的印度洋和繁忙的海运集装箱码头。这种悬浮在高空的感觉相当震撼,足以拍出引爆社交媒体的大片。
说到交通,钟楼纪念碑的位置非常特殊,它紧邻伊丽莎白港火车站和码头入口。虽然地处核心商业区,但由于南非部分城市老城区的社会治安环境,我不建议你独自步行前往,尤其是天色渐暗之后。最佳选择是搭乘 Uber 或当地可靠的旅游巴士,直接在钟楼门口下车。如果自己开车,停车建议选择有人看守的付费区域。
由于钟楼紧邻海边,塔顶的风力通常比地面大两到三个层级。即便是在夏天,我也建议带上一件薄外套,否则在高处吹上半小时冷风可不好受。目前钟楼通常在周二至周六上午 9 点到下午 5 点开放,周日只有下午 2 点到 5 点这一时段。周一一般是闭馆日,出发前最好咨询当地旅游局(Nelson Mandela Bay Tourism)确认最新变动,以免白跑一趟。
钟楼通常收取极低额度的入场费,大约在 10 至 30 兰特左右,主要是为了支持塔内的日常维护。建议携带少量兰特现金,有些时候售票处可能无法处理复杂的国际信用卡支付。
可以,这是 2017 年翻修后的一大进步。钟楼现在安装了专门设计的自承重观景电梯,轮椅使用者和腿脚不便的老年游客都能直接到达 50 米高的观景层,无需攀爬那 204 级台阶。
钟楼位于火车站附近,属于治安相对敏感的区域。白天跟随旅游团或多人结伴前往通常没有问题,但一定要避免在周边街道闲逛或显露昂贵的摄影器材。利用网约车点对点接送是最稳妥的方式。
钟琴通常由电脑控制定期演奏,早晨和傍晚往往是曲目播放的时间点。如果你运气好遇到现场乐师演奏,那不仅能听到钟声,还能通过内部的互动键盘看到对应的鬼魅之钟灯光秀。
Barry Lamprecht Was a great experience, even though the lift doesn't work and the bells haven't wrung in many years. Beautifull view from the top. Pitty it's not maintained better and we can do better to market such an historic landmark.
Corné Lamprecht The 50m high Campanile Memorial has a climb of 204 steps that takes one to the Observation Room, offering a magnificent view of the harbor and surroundings, more than 52m above the city.
hilton johnson Not a safe place. Area looks run down, and sometimes lots of unsavory looking people sitting and sleeping at the parking area. The harbor security didn't want me to park with the other vehicles outside the harbor entrance. Looks like part of the historic train station has been burned down. Lift in the Campanile doesn't work, and the bells also doesn't work. Some of the art pieces have been torn apart insidetheCampanile.
Norman John Visser Built to commemorate the arrival of the 1820 Settlers, this monument in the heart of the Nelson Mandela Bay Metro, down near the entrance to the Harbour, is an iconic part of Port Elizabeth's history. It is open to the public and it was beautifully revamped in 2017. Whether you're a tourist or a local, this is worth a visit, it has 204 steps, dyand just over 50 metres tall and is easy to climb. The views from the top are absolutely magical. The information and art within the monument is thought-provoking and very well planned. Don't miss the opportunity to experience this special monument to a very special group of humans who contributed richly to our country's history.
Nikki Moutsatsos Built to commemorate the landing of the settlers in 1820. 204 steps lead to magnificent views of the Harbour and railway lines. Step 67 contains a silver plaque to honor Nelson Mandela and the 67 years he devoted towards a democratic South Africa. Each landing has areas of additional interest and has a feeling of a mini art gallery or museum. Budget friendly as entrance is free. The staff are very friendly and helpful. A hidden gem.