- Kwa Muhle博物馆- 景点攻略Kwa Muhle Museum
- 历史文化
- 5 评论
探访德班Kwa Muhle博物馆：揭秘南非旧时代下的劳工生活与城市抗争史
如果你在德班市中心转悠，布拉姆·菲舍尔路130号那栋浅色的大楼绝对值得停下脚步。这里如今是Kwa Muhle博物馆（Kwa Muhle Museum），但在几十年前，它曾是让无数当地黑人感到压抑甚至恐惧的土著管理部所在地。走进这座建筑不需要门票，这里甚至比一些大型博物馆更具冲击力，因为它直接撕开了德班这座城市过去最为敏感的伤疤。
走进1927年的旧政府大楼
曾经的土著管理部核心
这栋建筑始建于1927年，由建筑师斯坦利·哈德森设计。在种族隔离时期，这里是执行种族政策的行政中枢。当时所有在德班寻找工作的黑人男性都必须经过这里的审查，领取通行证，否则就会被视为非法居留。走进宽敞的走廊，你还能隐约感受到当年那种官僚机构的压抑感。馆内保留了很多当年的原始布局，那种冷峻的建筑风格本身就是历史的一部分。
取名为好人背后的历史张力
这里的名字很有意思，Kwa Muhle在祖鲁语里意为“好人的地方”。这个好人指的是首任管理部主管马威克（J.S. Marwick）。他在布尔战争期间曾帮助七千名祖鲁劳工从约翰内斯堡安全撤回到纳塔尔省，因此赢得了当地人的尊重。然而讽刺的是，这栋以好人之名命名的建筑，后来却成了实施严苛管控政策的基地。这种名字与功能之间的反差，恰恰体现了南非历史那种复杂而多面的特质。
沉浸式感受德班的社会变迁
揭秘所谓德班系统的运作
博物馆里最核心的展览之一就是关于德班系统（The Durban System）的介绍。这是一种通过垄断高粱啤酒贸易来筹集管理经费的制度。政府禁止黑人私自酿酒，只能在官方开设的啤酒大厅饮酒，赚来的钱再用来修建简陋的劳工宿舍。这种羊毛出在羊身上的控制手段在当时的德班非常盛行。馆内展出的酿酒容器和当年的通告，真实记录了这段利用生活习惯进行社会管控的历史。
卡托庄园的泪水与抵抗
另一块重头戏是关于卡托庄园（Cato Manor）的展示。这片区域曾经是德班多元文化汇聚的社区，但在1950年代由于《集团地区法》的实施，数以万计的居民被迫搬迁，家园被推土机夷为平地。展览通过大量的黑白照片和当事人的口述，还原了当时的混乱与抗争。看到那些居民为了守护最后一点生活尊严而奋斗的故事，你会对德班现在的社会结构有更深的理解。
规划一次顺利的文化之旅
开放时间与停车细节
这里的工作时间比较固定。周一至周五通常是上午八点半到下午四点，周六则只开半天，到中午十二点半就关门了。周日和公共假期这里不接待游客，计划行程时一定要避开。虽然博物馆本身免费，但建议带一点零钱给门口帮忙照看车辆的安保人员。车可以停在路边的划线车位，但这附近属于繁忙的商业区，车位在工作日期间还是挺紧俏的。
建议的参观节奏与注意事项
整个博物馆逛下来大约需要一到一个半小时。馆内的信息密度很大，有很多需要静下心来阅读的文字说明。因为这里的展陈方式比较传统，缺少那种声光电的互动，所以更适合喜欢深度历史游的朋友。另外要提醒一下，虽然博物馆内部环境相对安全，但从这里步行去德班其他景点的路上要注意手机和随身财物，毕竟这一带的人流量非常杂乱。
常见问题
参观Kwa Muhle博物馆需要买票吗？
目前该博物馆对所有公众免费开放，不需要购买门票，但在入口处的登记册上写下姓名和国籍是常规要求。如果你是跟着超过十人的大团前往，最好提前给馆方打个电话预约，以便他们安排讲解员协助导览。
这里的治安情况怎么样，可以带相机拍照吗？
博物馆内部设有安保人员，环境相对安静有序。馆内大部分区域允许进行非商业用途的拍照，但由于涉及一些敏感的历史影像和私人信件，拍摄前最好留意一下墙上的提示。离开博物馆大门进入街道后，请务必收好相机，避免在街头高调露财。
从德班海滨大道去博物馆方便吗？
如果从黄金里程海滨大道（Golden Mile）出发，打车过去大约只需要十分钟左右。如果你想尝试当地的公共交通，可以搭乘穿梭于市中心的People Mover巴士，在市政厅附近下车再步行一段距离。不建议游客独自步行穿过市中心区域，尤其是下午五点之后街道光线变暗时。
KwaMuhle博物馆 用户评价
Het Navadiya - 4
The first thing that stood out as I walked into the old Native Administration Building was how clean and well preserved it was. Staff at reception were extremely helpful and kind. It was refreshing to experience good service from government employees. The museum itself is small with only 4 main display rooms. One of which has most of Durbans history in the form of story boards and sculptures depicting life at the time. There is a large room where an HIV AIDS gallery is held. There was too much writing on the walls. Literally. Another room showcased stories and paraphernalia of the Durban Old Boys, men who fought in World War 1. Although the information and faculties were relevant and informative, I expected more. Toilet facilities available. Ample parking. Safe.
ZMatlatso Tshikila - 5
It is one of the important places to give you detailed history about how black people lived , it also has a HIV museum, nice place to be at.
Ravi Singh - 4
This afternoon I had some time to spare and wondered into Kwa Muhle Museum in Durban CBD, a museum of apartheid history. I lived in this city for 52 years and did not know that this even existed have driven by 1000's of time. The building is a delight by its self, with its wrap around veranda and many arches. It's a historic building that once was used a the City's infamous Native Administration Department. The exhibits are moving and touched a deep cord within me. I remembered the time I was 6 years old and my mum sitting on the stoop of our rented wood and iron home, located at 31 Prince Avenue, she was crying and pleading with the municipal workers not to demolish our home. Which they did with some of our items still in it. Rendering us homeless. It was the era of apartheid and the enforcement of the group areas act. Which meant that people of the same race were forcefully removed from their homes with little or no compensation to areas further away from their employments. This mainly effected blacks and Indians. Black's were housed in Umlazi and Kwa Mashu and Indians in Chatsworth and later Phoenix. This was a strategic move by the ruling National Party to use the Indians as a buffer in the event of uprising from the blacks. Most of Durban is still set up in the manner. I remembered the time in my teens when my classmates and myself played hookie and to the train to Durban beach from the old Captial Towers building, I was struck by the Beaty of the beach, with beach umbrellas deck chairs on the sand. Happyly and excited I run 9nto the beach only to be caught by a white policeman slapped a couple of time in public and was made to sweep my footprints of the sand. I did not even know what apartheid was at that time. I think that this museum is insightful by they have omitted a lord especially about the hardships and struggle face by the Indian community during that era. I meet a couple of Americans tourist and related my story which shocked them. Recommended.
Kaylin Albertyn - 4
Lovely place to learn about the history of Durban. Informative. Educational. Went during COVID, so more of the Museum had been closed off but still a lovely experience.
Dominic Naidoo - 4
The first thing that stood out as I walked into the old Native Administration Building was how clean and well preserved it was. Staff at reception were extremely helpful and kind. It was refreshing to experience good service from government employees. The museum itself is small with only 4 main display rooms. One of which has most of Durbans history in the form of story boards and sculptures depicting life at the time. There is a large room where an HIV AIDS gallery is held. There was too much writing on the walls. Literally. Another room showcased stories and paraphernalia of the Durban Old Boys, men who fought in World War 1. Although the information and faculties were relevant and informative, I expected more. Toilet facilities available. Ample parking. Safe.
