肯尼斯斯坦贝克自然保护区(Kenneth Stainbank Nature Reserve)坐落在德班南郊的黄木园(Yellowwood Park),占地约 253 公顷。这片受保护的海岸沿线灌木丛林不仅是 200 多种鸟类的家园,还矗立着一座始建于 1885 年的库德摩尔城堡(Coedmore Castle)。这里距离德班市中心仅有 15 分钟车程,却能让人迅速从喧嚣的城市切换到斑马奔跑的荒野模式。作为德班当地人周末郊游的私藏宝地,它在 1963 年被正式宣布为保护区,至今仍保持着相对原始的生态面貌。
走进保护区最直观的感受就是生命力。这里的步道纵横交错,最受游客欢迎的是那些能近距离接触大型草食动物的路线。运气好的话,走不到十分钟就能看到斑马在草地上慢条斯理地啃食,或者林羚(Nyala)在灌木丛边缘好奇地张望。除了这些显眼的大家伙,地面上偶尔闪过的蓝麂羚(Blue Duiker)和顽皮的绿长尾猴也是这里的常客。这类徒步不需要专业的攀登设备,普通运动鞋就能应付大部分平缓的路段。
保护区内有一条非常特殊的“盲人野外小径”(Wilderness Trail for the Blind),这在整个南非都属于超前的设计。这条步道通过绳索导向和布满盲文的信息牌,让视障人士也能通过触觉、嗅觉和听觉来感受非洲森林的律动。对于普通游客来说,闭上眼睛走一段,去听那些从 200 多种鸟类喉咙里发出的鸣叫,或者触摸粗糙的百年树皮,也是一种完全不同的自然教育体验。
如果说自然景观是这里的皮肤,那么库德摩尔城堡就是它的灵魂。这座由达利尔·斯坦贝克(Deryck Stainbank)于 1885 年用当地采石场石材建造的宏伟建筑,采用了典型的维多利亚时代风格。古堡外墙厚实,窗口窄长,静静地隐藏在参天的黄木树(Yellowwood)影子下。虽然城堡现在不作为全天候开放的博物馆,但它那股沉淀了超过 130 年的历史气息,总能让经过的游客产生一种穿越回殖民时期农场主生活的错觉。
肯尼斯·斯坦贝克作为家族的继承人,在 20 世纪中期做出了一个改变这片土地命运的决定。他将自家的大片私有土地捐赠给国家,前提是这片土地必须作为自然保护区永久保存。这种对自然遗产的保护意识,使得德班在快速扩张的过程中,保留下了一块珍贵的原始绿洲。走进保护区,某种程度上也是在致敬那段关乎慷慨与远见的往事,这里的每一棵百年古树都见证了家族与土地的情感纽带。
山地车爱好者对这里情有独钟。保护区内开辟了大约 10 公里长的专用自行车赛道,坡度起伏非常适合中级水平的骑行者练手。车道穿梭于密集的树林和开阔的草地之间,路况包含碎石、泥土路和树根盘错的林间路。清晨六点半入园是最好的选择,那时候空气里还带着露水的清甜,而且动物们最活跃,一边骑行一边看斑马从侧方跑过是家常便饭。骑行者通常需要额外支付一小笔费用,但比起那种纯竞技的场馆,这里的景观性价比极高。
保护区的成人门票目前大约在 60 兰特左右,儿童和退休老人有半价优惠。开放时间通常从早上 6 点持续到傍晚 18 点。钱的问题一定要提前算好,因为部分时段售票处可能只接受现金或扫码。说到安全,尽管保护区有围栏,但依然属于野外环境。不建议单人去往那些人烟罕至的密林深处,组队出行总是更稳妥的选择。另外,由于德班气候湿热,带足饮用水和防蚊液是基本常识,尤其是雨季过后的灌木丛,蚊虫的战斗力不容小觑。
目前成人入园费用大约为 60 兰特,儿童票价约为 30 兰特。如果是骑行爱好者或带了专业摄影器材,入园时可能需要支付额外的专项费用,建议出发前查看官网或询问门岗最新标准。
这里最常见的动物包括斑马、林羚、蓝麂羚和灌木羚羊,幸运的话还能见到猫鼬。此外,这里是观鸟胜地,拥有超过 200 种鸟类记录,包括德班本地特有的几种猛禽和林鸟。
库德摩尔城堡内部不常态化对公众自由开放,通常需要提前通过管理处预约导览。如果没有预约,游客只能在城堡外围拍照,欣赏其 1885 年落成的石质建筑风格和周边的古树园林。
非常适合,这里不仅有大面积的野餐区,还有难度极低的步行路径。带孩子来近距离观察动物或是在 253 公顷的林地里进行科普教育,比去市中心的室内游乐场更有意义。
建议自驾或使用打车软件前往,导航定位在 90 Coedmore Ave, Yellowwood Park 即可。保护区门口设有停车场,由于这里公共交通不便,如果没有私家车,回程时可能需要等待较长时间才能叫到车。
Candice Beneke Well, I'm 42 years old and Sunday was the 1st time I have ever been to this reserve. I went to take part in the Walk in the Wild Run/ Walk which was to assist in raising funds for Crow that Rescue, Rehabilitate, and Realease thousands of animals every year. I must say what a lovely place to go for picnics, trails walks and even trails for Cyclists such beautiful scenery and the amazing work these people do to assist the injured animals they truely are awesome. I will most definitely be back.
Candice Beneke Well, I'm 42 years old and Sunday was the 1st time I have ever been to this reserve. I went to take part in the Walk in the Wild Run/ Walk which was to assist in raising funds for Crow that Rescue, Rehabilitate, and Realease thousands of animals every year. I must say what a lovely place to go for picnics, trails walks and even trails for Cyclists such beautiful scenery and the amazing work these people do to assist the injured animals they truely are awesome. I will most definitely be back.
Marna Roelofse Lovely hike with good markings! Saw some lovely wildlife, and got to have our picnic next to the most tranquil dam/pond. Unfortunately there is quite a bit of pollution in the river itself. But the trails are well kept! And used our Wild Card to get in!
Marna Roelofse Lovely hike with good markings! Saw some lovely wildlife, and got to have our picnic next to the most tranquil dam/pond. Unfortunately there is quite a bit of pollution in the river itself. But the trails are well kept! And used our Wild Card to get in!
Kyle West Great hike around here. Did the 5km loop. Lots of bird life, saw Red Duiker, zebra. Picnic sites and plastic benches are in good shape. Great markings of the hiking trails. Friendly staff, very helpful. Was a little saddening to see all the plastic litter near the river, from the floods.
Kyle West Great hike around here. Did the 5km loop. Lots of bird life, saw Red Duiker, zebra. Picnic sites and plastic benches are in good shape. Great markings of the hiking trails. Friendly staff, very helpful. Was a little saddening to see all the plastic litter near the river, from the floods.
Germaine Barnard I arranged a guided tour for my daughter for her 5th birthday. She is blind and I was blown away with the amount of effort that Mary-Anne, Christine, and Collin from the Honorary Officer Group put into making my daughters day absolutely special. They adapted the guide so that she could touch all the plants, trees and they were so patient in explaining what the animals where doing and all the sounds being made. They even made her a sash and flower crown❤❤ The guide was so informative and educational, we all learnt so much! The kids thoroughly enjoyed seeing the zeebras, getting close and learning more about these majestic animals. The reserve is picturesque and we'll kept. It really is a piece of heaven on earth🙏 I don't think you can get this kind of experience without the guided tour, so the guided tour comes highly recommend!!
Germaine Barnard I arranged a guided tour for my daughter for her 5th birthday. She is blind and I was blown away with the amount of effort that Mary-Anne, Christine, and Collin from the Honorary Officer Group put into making my daughters day absolutely special. They adapted the guide so that she could touch all the plants, trees and they were so patient in explaining what the animals where doing and all the sounds being made. They even made her a sash and flower crown❤❤ The guide was so informative and educational, we all learnt so much! The kids thoroughly enjoyed seeing the zeebras, getting close and learning more about these majestic animals. The reserve is picturesque and we'll kept. It really is a piece of heaven on earth🙏 I don't think you can get this kind of experience without the guided tour, so the guided tour comes highly recommend!!