位于南非西开普省塞德堡山脉(Cederberg Mountains)的布什曼斯克卢夫荒野保护区(Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve)占地约7500公顷。这里距离开普敦大约270公里,开车需要三个半小时左右。不同于克鲁格那种以追逐猛兽为主的游猎,这片被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的土地,更多是关于古老岩画、独特植被和静谧的山脉景观。如果你想躲开大批游客,找个安静的地方感受上万年的历史沉淀,这儿绝对是个绕不开的选择。
布什曼斯克卢夫最引以为傲的并不是现代建筑,而是散落在保护区各处的130多处桑人(San)岩画遗址。这些岩画的历史可以追溯到10000年前,用赭石、氧化铁和植物汁液绘成。你可以跟着这里的专业向导步行前往,他们能告诉你画面里的人形和动物图案到底代表了某种萨满仪式还是日常狩猎记录。很多岩画就在露天的岩石屏风下,没有任何围栏。站在这些画作面前,你会真切感受到人类文明在时间长河里的痕迹。保护区内部对每天参观岩画的人数有严格限制,这种做法保护了遗迹免受过多呼吸水分和人为触摸的破坏。
这里的植被属于著名的凡波斯(Fynbos)灌木丛生态系统,是世界六大植物区系中面积最小但物种多样性最丰富的。保护区内生长着超过755种植物,其中包括极其稀有的开普杉。如果你在每年的8月到9月之间过来,会看到干旱的山谷变幻成一片色彩斑斓的花海。这时候的景观冲击力不亚于纳马夸兰,但因为是私家保护区,你可以独自占领一整片山坡的野花。除了植物,这里还是濒危的开普山斑马的重要栖息地。这种斑马比普通的平原斑马体型小一些,条纹也更细密,目前全球数量也不过几千只,但在布什曼斯克卢夫很容易就能在驱车游览时看到它们的身影。
从开普敦出发去保护区,最顺的路是走N7公路。过了皮凯特贝赫(Piketberg)后,山路会变得稍微崎岖一些。最精彩的路段是翻越帕克胡伊斯山口(Pakhuis Pass),海拔起伏很大,建议新手司机在白天光线好的时候通过。保护区大门到主建筑还有一段土路,虽然普通轿车也能开,但底盘稍微高一点的SUV会让你坐得更舒服。如果你不想自己开车,保护区也提供从开普敦国际机场出发的私人包机服务,飞行时间大约45分钟,能从空中俯瞰整个西开普省的褶皱山脉景象。
塞德堡属于典型的地中海气候,但山区温差极大。夏季的12月到2月,白天气温经常飙升到40摄氏度以上,这时候户外徒步会比较辛苦,但晚上星星特别亮,非常适合观星。6月到8月是雨季,气温会降到10摄氏度以下,清晨六点半出发驱车观察动物时,冷到需要抱着热水瓶并披上厚毯子。最推荐的时间是9月和10月,不仅花开得好,气温也维持在20多摄氏度的舒适区间,无论是寻找岩画还是在户外野餐都非常惬意。
这里并不是以非洲五霸为卖点的动物保护区,你在这里看不到狮子、大象或水牛。这里的主角是开普山斑马、大羚羊、黑背胡狼以及超过150种鸟类。如果你追求的是近距离观看大型食肉动物,建议去克鲁格或者东开普省的私人保护区。
完全不需要。这里位于西开普省,属于南非的无疟疾区,一年四季都不受疟疾困扰。这意味着你可以省去服药带来的副作用,对带小孩或者老人的家庭游客非常友好,防晒霜和遮阳帽反而才是这里的必需品。
主营地通常只接待8岁及以上的儿童,主要是为了保证山谷间的静谧氛围以及岩画参观时的秩序。如果你带着更小的孩子,可以考虑预订保护区内的科罗别墅(Koro Lodge),这是一个完全独立的私人别墅,配有专属管家和向导,没有任何年龄限制。
对于住店客人来说,每天早晨由专业向导带领的岩画之旅是包含在房费里的。向导会根据当天的天气和客人的体力情况选择不同的徒步路线。建议出发前检查官网最新信息,确定具体的出发时间和着装要求,因为有些岩画点需要短距离攀爬。
Banya Hwang I want to say a huge thank you to all the staff at this lovely hotel 🥰 This place has truly become my second favourite place in the world, just after my home country. 😉 If I ever get the chance, I’ll definitely come back. Since my visit, I’ve been telling everyone they should go. If you’re reading this and looking for somewhere to stay in South Africa, just book it! You honestly won’t regret a single moment 💫 At first, you might think the hotel is in the middle of nowhere and wonder what you’ll do there. But trust me, there’s so much to enjoy, all in the most peaceful and relaxing way 🌿 It’s perfect for a romantic getaway, a family holiday, especially if you have children and aren’t sure about going on a full safari. It’s also ideal if you just need a break from the busy world or want to give yourself a little reward. The hotel is full board, and from the moment you arrive, the manager will give you a lovely tour of all the spaces. You’ll also have your own guide throughout your stay. I stayed for three nights and honestly, my only regret was not booking a full week. Before coming here, I stayed at their sister hotel in Cape Town and then drove around three hours to reach this one. I stayed in a beautifully decorated two-bedroom villa 🏡 There are two places to dine, a cosy little bar, and three swimming pools. There are also so many quiet spots where you can sit comfortably and just enjoy the view 🌅 Now let’s talk about the food... it’s not just good, it’s amazing 😋 Every dish is so creative and full of flavour. I would return just for the food alone. They serve a wonderful mix of local and international dishes, and everything is done with care and style. As for activities, our guide Tristan was incredible. He was knowledgeable, always willing to share, and so kind and friendly. We went to see ancient rock art, did a bit of fishing, and enjoyed magical stargazing 🌌 You can also go hiking or cycling alongside animals, which was such a special experience 🦓🚲 This place is truly magical and one of the most memorable stays I’ve ever had. Can’t wait to come back someday ❤️
Beau We had an amazing stay at Bushmans Kloof. They really accomodate to your wishes and the staff is very professional! Our guide Tristan made it an even better stay, he took us to rock art spots, a hike and a beautiful natural pool! Thank you for an unforgettable stay.
Talita Hudson Tucked away in the rugged heart of the Cederberg, Bushmans Kloof is more than just a wilderness retreat—it’s a living gallery of ancient stories. This extraordinary place protects over 130 rock art sites, some dating back 10,000 years, painted by the San people who once moved silently through these ochre-coloured cliffs. But it’s not just about the past. The landscape here hums with life: crystal-clear waterfalls, rare Cape mountain leopards, and fields of wildflowers that burst into colour after the rains. It’s one of those rare places where luxury meets deep time—and where silence can feel louder than words.
Catrina Murray Bushman's Kloof is an amazing place, with exceptional service and facilities. The food is top notch and it really feels like the guests are their first and only priority. The area is like nothing I've seen before and will probably never see again, a truly wonderful experience. Would like to give a special mention to Abigail (our guide), Liam (took us stargazing) and Dumisa (waitor), thank you so much for all you did, you made our trip one we will never forget!
Beverley Davimes Didn't stay over, but boy .... wish I did! We were here for a business meeting. Wow! Stunning doesn't begin to describe this treasure. It has old world charm, serene, with the most stunning views and the staff are fabulous. So friendly and helpful.