位于南非西海岸R27公路旁的布法罗方丹野生动物自然保护区(Buffelsfontein Game Nature Reserve)占地达到1600公顷,从开普敦市区驱车北上仅需大约1小时。相比那些动辄需要飞行或长途拉练的游猎目的地,这里为日程紧凑的游客提供了一个亲近非洲水牛、犀牛、狮子和豹的绝佳窗口。保护区成立于1994年,原址是一座规模庞大的牛羊牧场,如今已演变为开普敦近郊最成熟的私人自然保护区之一。在这里你见不到成群的大象,因为生态容量限制了这种庞然大物的生存,但除了大象之外的非洲五霸成员都能在这里找到踪迹。
自驾是前往布法罗方丹的最佳方式。从开普敦出发,沿着风景如画的R27公路一路向北,路况整体平整且指向清晰。大约行驶85公里后,你会看到显眼的保护区指示牌。如果你在八月到九月的南非春季造访,这条路两侧会开满西海岸特有的野花,原本荒凉的灌木丛会变成色彩斑斓的地毯。建议上午出发的朋友尽量在8点半前离开市区,避开早高峰的拥堵,这样能赶上保护区最为精彩的时段。
保护区的大门非常低调,但进入之后便能感受到粗犷的原始气息。这里海拔较低,地势起伏相对平缓,这种地形让搜寻野生动物变得不再那么全凭运气。如果你没有租车,也可以在开普敦当地报一些包含接送的一日游项目。虽说价格会比自驾贵出一截,但省去了驾驶右舵车的压力,坐在高大的敞篷游猎车上视线也更好。
布法罗方丹的精华在于每天两场的驱车游猎(Game Drive),分别安排在上午9点和下午2点。整场游览持续大约3个小时,资深的向导会驾着改装过的陆虎车带你穿越灌木丛。这里生活着非洲五霸中的狮子、水牛、白犀牛和豹。很多人可能不知道,虽然保护区面积不算惊人,但动物密度极高,你很有机会在短时间内看到长颈鹿低头啃食刺槐叶,或者一群蓝角马在草地上狂奔。清晨出发时西海岸的海风往往透着凉意,即便在夏天,出发前也得备一件防风外套,否则风吹在脸上刀割一样疼。
除了常规的巡游,周末上午10点的动物喂食环节是这里的保留节目。这不仅是看狮子和豹子撕咬新鲜肉块的机会,更是近距离观察这些顶级捕食者肌肉线条和野性眼神的时刻。向导会讲解这些猛兽的习性以及保护区如何进行种群管理。对于带着孩子的家庭来说,这种互动感极强的体验比单纯坐在车里找动物要有趣得多。这里还有专门的猎豹保全项目,运气好的话能看到这些陆地短跑冠军在空旷地带踱步。
保护区内的配套设施比想象中要完善。这里的餐厅以提供南非当地特色野味而闻名,如果你想尝试大羊排或者当地特色的海鲜大杂烩,一定要提前预订。餐厅的露台正对着一片开阔地,吃午饭时经常能看到斑马和跳羚在不远处晃悠。说到钱的问题也得算清楚,目前成人的驱车游猎票价大致在600至850兰特之间,具体取决于是否包含午餐以及淡旺季。相比某些开价两三千兰特的私人营地,这个价格非常良心。建议出发前查看官网获取最新报价,因为南非的景区门票经常会根据燃油价格小幅波动。
如果你觉得一天往返太仓促,保护区也提供不同规格的住宿,从充满丛林气息的简易木屋到设施齐全的度假套房都有。住在这里最大的福利是能在寂静的深夜听到远处狮子的低吼和胡狼的尖叫。早晨醒来,推开门可能就有几只珍珠鸡在门口觅食。由于西海岸气候干燥,建议多准备些饮用水。虽然保护区内有售卖,但自己背两瓶大水总归省事又省钱。防晒霜和遮阳帽也是刚需,南非的紫外线极强,即便在车篷遮挡下,半天下来也能让你脱一层皮。
非常建议提前至少24小时通过邮件或官网预约,特别是在周末和当地假期。因为每辆游猎车的座位有限,如果不预约直接前往,很可能遇到客满而只能在接待区干坐着的情况。工作日的下午场通常人较少,如果想体验专车的感觉,可以错峰出行。
这里只能看到五霸中的四种,分别是狮子、水牛、犀牛和豹,没有大象。由于保护区的植被类型和1600公顷的面积限制,不适合大象这种对领地和植被消耗巨大的动物生存。如果你执着于看大象,可能需要选择离市区更远的私人保护区或者飞往克鲁格。
最佳游玩时间是每年的8月下旬到9月底,这正是西海岸的繁花季节。此时不仅天气温和,平均气温在18至22度左右,且自驾前往保护区的R27公路两侧会开满绚丽的野花。冬季(6月至8月)虽然偶尔有雨,但也是动物最活跃、最容易被观察到的时节。
Kimberly Budge We had such a beautiful full board one evening stay. Thanks to Willie for an awesome game drive, to Anya for the dictating my two boys on some of the animals and of course to Penelope the pig, sooo adorable. The food was really good, accomodation was great. I can’t fault our little one night trip. Thank you to the staff who were extremely helpful and always had a smile on their faces. We will be back!
Liesel Steinberg Our ranger was super friendly and went the extra mile. She's very kind. I lost my reading glasses one lens & she found it. Super happy about that. We saw glands, springboks, lots of zebras , giraffes 🦒buffalo's lioness & lion
Smiley 1715 We were extremely fortunate to see ALL the animals at Buffelsfontein. We had the best Guide: Anja. The staff were extremely friendly and accommodating. The food was delicious and the Cottage was cozy to stay in. I highly recommend staying a few nights!
Shinead Comfort Incredible Easter weekend spent staying in Buffelsfontein bush camp. The staff were friendly and accommodating. Special mention to the reception Heather who was an absolute star! Enjoyed a few days relaxing at the pool. The full day game drive was filled with amazing sightings and experience. Highly recommend!
Rebecca Great game reserve! We had an incredible time and loved our guide- Anya! Rooms we stayed in were great with a lovely view! Only reason I gave it 4 stars was due to the restaurant. They are incredibly slow. The first time we had to take out food to go as we needed to get on the game drive. They messed up our food orders a few times which was really frustrating. They can’t really speak much English and it was just a little disappointing due to the rest of the farm etc being GREAT. They didn’t have any milk alternatives nor did the restaurant have any gluten free options other than asking for a burger with no bun. (The chicken burgers are breaded as well). Other than that, we had a lovely time! And again, Anya is AMAZING! They only have 4 of the big five. They do not have elephants. They also only have one smaller black leopard and no other ones.