博通戈犀牛和狮子自然保护区(Bothongo Rhino & Lion Nature Reserve)坐落在南非豪登省克罗姆德莱地区,距离约翰内斯堡市区大约 45 公里车程。这片占地约 1200 公顷的土地不仅是联合国教科文组织认定的世界遗产人类摇篮(Cradle of Humankind)的一部分,更以其独特的白狮种群和便捷的游览方式闻名。对于那些只有一天空余时间,却想在野外近距离观察猛兽的人来说,这里是性价比极高的选择。
很多人到了南非总觉得一定要坐飞机去克鲁格才能看动物,其实博通戈保护区给短途游客提供了一个非常务实的替代方案。这片保护区自 1985 年建立以来,已经从一个小型的犀牛庇护所演变成拥有超过 600 只动物的综合性生态园。比起那些动辄需要几天行程的大型国家公园,这里开车不到一小时就能抵达。你可以早上在市区喝完咖啡,中午就坐在车里看犀牛在草地上散步。
保护区最大的特色就是允许游客驾驶私家车进入猛兽区。虽然这种方式自由度很高,但如果是第一次来,建议算好时间参加园方组织的驱车游猎。向导们通常带着对讲机,能实时掌握狮子和猎豹的动向。如果你选择自驾,进入猛兽围栏区时千万不要心存侥幸打开车窗。那些看似懒散的狮子爆发力惊人,保持车窗紧闭是保命的铁律。另外,私家车的底盘如果太低,在一些非铺装路面上行驶会比较吃力,建议开 SUV 前往。
白狮是博通戈的当家明星。这并不是白化病,而是一种罕见的基因突变。在这里看到白狮的概率比在野外高得多,因为保护区对这一种群进行了专门的育种保护。除了狮子,园内还生活着非洲野犬、猎豹和棕鬣狗等顶级掠食者。这些动物分属不同的封闭区域,通过双重闸门系统隔开,保证了游客的安全,也避免了不同族群之间的过度冲突。
如果想看狮子最活跃的一面,一定要在周末或者公众假期前往。通常在下午一点左右,工作人员会进行大型猫科动物的喂食演示。那是全园最热闹的时候,能听到雄狮争夺食物时发出的低沉吼声,那种震动感在几十米开外的车里都能清晰感受到。平时狮子大多在树荫下睡觉,只有到了喂食点,它们才会展现出掠食者的本色。
很多游客只盯着动物看,却错过了同样震撼的奇观洞(Wonder Cave)。这个溶洞拥有超过 500 万年的历史,深度达到 60 米。它是南非第三大溶洞,内部的空间大到可以容纳一栋多层建筑。洞内那些形态各异的钟乳石和石笋在灯光映衬下显得格外神秘。参观溶洞需要额外购票,且要爬一段比较陡峭的台阶,体力消耗比看动物要大一些,但那份避开南非烈日的清凉感非常舒服。
目前成人入园票价大约在 230 至 300 兰特之间,具体取决于你是否包含奇观洞的参观门票。儿童和老年人通常享有折扣,建议在官网预订以确保名额,尤其是周末和节假日。自驾入园不需要额外支付车辆通行费,但参加有导游的游览车通常需要每人额外支付约 150 兰特。
园内设有几家不同档次的餐厅,最受欢迎的是带有观景台的餐厅,可以一边吃汉堡一边远眺草原上的动物。如果带了孩子,这里还有专门的小型动物园区域,可以近距离看到一些温顺的幼崽或小型哺乳动物。此外还设有烧烤区,很多南非当地人会全家出动,带上冰块和肉类在这里野炊,这才是最地道的南非周末玩法。
普通的家用轿车完全可以应付园区内的大部分路段,因为主要道路都经过了平整处理。不过在雨季之后,部分土路可能会有较深的坑洼,底盘较高的车辆行驶体验会更好。进入猛兽区前请检查油表,因为在围栏内是严禁下车的,即使车辆抛锚也必须待在车内等待救援车辆抵达。
南非的旱季也就是每年的 5 月到 9 月是观察野生动物的黄金期。这时候草木稀疏,狮子和犀牛没有地方藏身,一眼就能看到。清晨或傍晚是动物最活跃的时段,但博通戈作为日间开放的保护区,最佳抵达时间是上午九点开园时,这样你可以赶在中午气温最高前走完大部分驱车路线。
Noelle Marozeau For people who do safaris in open spaces, this is a little bit above a very large zoo, but I didn't feel that way when I was there. It is true that their habitats are managed by humans so they don't have to go out and hunt, and they're taken care of but they have very large areas where they live, and your visit in the big jeeps, just like if you were in the types of safaris that we all see on tv or we wish to go. But the place is well maintained. The service was impeccable, and if you're traveling with children, this place is ideal. Did I mention you can feed a Giraffe in their cafe??
Sarah-Leigh Martin Brilliant day out. Kids loved seeing the animals that they are learning about at school. They absolutely crashed on the way home. Facilities are clean and the staff are friendly.
Kobus Maasdorp Only one word to describe our experience WOW!!!! We wanted an amazing experience to celebrate my wife's birthday, and we got that, and more. After initial confusion about the cost of a visit for two persons of which one has a birthday, we made a second call for clarity, and we left. What an awesome experience we had. From the second call, the reception at the reserve, the drive through the reserve, absolutely amazing. We watched the feeding of all the types of predators they have, brown lions, white lions, African Wild Dogs and Cheetahs. As we drove into the reserve we could see wild animals everywhere. You name an animal and it's there. What we didn't see we're elephant and giraffe, but apparently there are giraffe on this reserve. There is a birds of prey and a hippo walk as well but there was not enough time. There is an awesome picnic and braai area as well. At this place there is what they call "animal creche" where we saw white striped Bengal Tiger, jaguars, cheetahs and a whole host of wild creatures. There is a small serenity garden with a lot of big birds, peacocks and hens, cranes, miniature ostriches and tortoises. This garden is so peaceful that the only noises one hears are those of the bird life. We MUST go back for a second time to go and see what we didn't see yesterday (14/7/24). We so much enjoyed our day at this place. Everything about this place is great. We will make sure our second visit will be a longer one in order for us to experience everything this place has on offer. Lastly I must mention that it is so obvious this is not a government place because everything works, everything runs properly and all the roads, fences and infrastructure are not falling apart. Well done Bothongo Rhino and Lion Reserve. You know what you are doing.
Vishal Ramphal What a perfect place to be with loved ones. Visited today purely by chance and what I can tell you is that is is the most underrated venue in Johannesburg. Better than the other place, way cheaper too. Staff are just great and the pizza at the Neck & Deck restaurant will blow your socks off... Trust me...GO TO THIS PLACE!
Laurent Mornet We stayed 2 nights in the cabin log with jacuzzi and we had a wonderful time. The chalet was not brand new but well equipped, clean and comfortable for us. We had a Rhino with the baby stayed in front of our cabin the whole night. We would definitely go again.