布莱德河峡谷(Blyde River Canyon)全长约26公里,深度将近800米,是南非普马兰加省(Mpumalanga)克鲁格国家公园周边的核心地标。这里被公认为世界第三大峡谷,但更重要的标签是世界上规模最大的绿色峡谷。与大峡谷那种干旱荒芜的红岩质感不同,这里覆盖着茂密的亚热带植被,一年四季郁郁葱葱。从约翰内斯堡开车过来大约需要4个半小时,如果是去克鲁格游猎,顺路安排1到2天的时间在这里停留是极其合理的路线选择。
三德瓦尔峰是整个景区的标志。三个巨大的圆形岩石山体矗立在峡谷边缘,形状非常像南非传统的圆顶草屋(Rondavels)。这里的海拔跨度极大,最高点玛丽普斯科普(Mariepskop)达到1944米,当你站在观景台上,脚下是呈U型转弯的布莱德河,视觉冲击力非常直接。建议把这里安排在下午三点之后,此时光线斜射在岩层上,层次感最分明,也最容易拍出深邃的明暗对比。
不少人觉得这里只是个看水的地方,其实不然。这里是布莱德河(Blyde River)与特鲁尔河(Treur River)的交汇点。数千年来,河水携带的砂石在漩涡动力下,在红色砂岩河床上钻出了一个个巨大的圆柱形深坑。这里的入场费目前对国际游客大约是每人150兰特左右,包含了小型博物馆的门票。沿着修好的栈道走,你可以横跨在几十米深的壶穴上方。要提醒的是,虽然这里有几座造型优美的步行桥,但严禁翻越围栏拍照,下方的水流湍急且深度难测。
上帝之窗位于峡谷的最南端,天气好的时候,能一眼望穿克鲁格国家公园,甚至能看到莫桑比克边境。这里的垂直落差超过700米。说实话,很多游客在这里会失望,因为该地区极易聚集浓雾。如果当天清晨你发现云层很厚,建议先去其他景点,等中午太阳升起、水汽消散后再尝试。这里不仅有主观景点,继续沿着雨林小径往上走大约15分钟,还有一个热带雨林区,那里的植被密度和负氧离子含量会让你觉得爬坡也是值得的。
如果只是在全景大道的路边观景台看,你只能看到峡谷的脊背。想看峡谷的心脏,得去布莱德河大坝(Blyde River Dam)坐船。这种游船行程大约90分钟,最大的看点是卡迪希凝灰岩瀑布(Kadishi Tufa Waterfall)。这个瀑布高达200米,是世界上为数不多的仍在“生长”的瀑布。凝灰岩瀑布的特殊之处在于水中的碳酸钙在岩石表面沉积,使得瀑布随着时间推移越变越厚。游船上还能看到河马和各种稀有的水鸟,视角比在山上往下看要丰富得多。
对于体力尚可的旅行者,豹之径是峡谷内最推荐的中距离徒步路线。全长约4到5公里,走完需要3小时左右。这条路线会带你穿过灌木丛,最终到达一个可以平视三德瓦尔峰的秘密观察点。早晨六点半出发时山里气温很低,风也大,哪怕是夏天也得带件防风外套。路上并没有便利店,记得在背囊里塞两瓶水。这条路标示还算清晰,但部分路段岩石松动,穿抓地力好的运动鞋或徒步鞋是安全的前提。
选择季节时,建议首选5月到9月的旱季。这段时间南非处于冬季和初春,虽然早晚温差大,但天气清爽,几乎没有降雨,空气能见度达到最高,非常适合远眺拍照。12月到2月是南非的雨季,午后常有强烈的雷阵雨。雨季虽然瀑布水量巨大,但全景大道上的雾气往往会让“上帝之窗”变成“上帝的白墙”,自驾通过狭窄山路时安全性也会降低。
全景大道沿线的景点大都是独立收费的,并不是一张通票走天下。目前单景点费用从35兰特到150兰特不等,建议随身准备一些小面额现金,部分偏远入口的刷卡机信号并不稳定。从约翰内斯堡出发,建议走N4公路经米德尔堡(Middelburg),然后转R540经杜尔斯特鲁姆(Dullstroom)到达莱登堡(Lydenburg)。杜尔斯特鲁姆是个以鳟鱼垂钓闻名的小镇,海拔2100米,很适合作为中途休息点吃顿午饭。
如果只是自驾经过并在主要的三个观景台拍照,大约需要4到5小时。若要包含大坝游船或完成豹之径徒步,则必须在格拉斯科普(Graskop)或周边的小镇住上一晚,安排完整的2天行程才不会赶路。建议第一天中午到达并参观壶穴,第二天清晨前往三德瓦尔峰。
全景大道及峡谷景区属于成熟旅游区,白天驾驶安全性较高,沿途道路维护良好,普通轿车即可通行。但一定要避开夜间行车,因为部分路段没有路灯且经常有野生动物或行人穿行。停车时务必带走车内的贵重物品,不要留在座位上吸引注意。
除了伯克幸运壶穴有一个小型快餐店和便利店外,大多数观景台只提供简单的公厕。主要的餐饮和补给都集中在格拉斯科普镇,那里距离上帝之窗约15分钟车程。镇上的煎饼屋非常出名,是大多数自驾者的补给点,出发前最好在这里加满油并备足干粮。
每个景点的门票是分开购买的。2024年参考价格为:三德瓦尔峰约35-45兰特,伯克幸运壶穴针对国际游客约150兰特,上帝之窗约40兰特。如果参加游船项目,费用大约在250至300兰特左右,建议出发前查看普马兰加旅游局官网获取最新报价。
Яна Торбова Incredible views! You reach the place by car and then you need to walk a little. Depending on which direction you go after the parking - left or right, you will end up on two different views. Entrance fee is 90 ZAR (locals pay less). There are nice souvenir stalls and a cafe near the parking. Highly recommend the visit here.
Sonke Nvubu Beautiful memories were shared here. From my love of National Geographic and its natural documentaries, it felt as if I was there witnessing the spectacular breathtaking hills and mountains of the canyon and its rich old history of erosion to the detail depth water cruise and a wildlife area for wild animals... We had a great one with my beloved Rose.
Nico Smith South Africa is a country blessed with an abundance of natural beauty, but there are very few more spectacular locations than the Blyde River Canyon in summer. It is a sight to behold. An easy option for a great view of the canyon is the Three Rondavels Viewpoint. When I visited in high season however, the queue of cars into the car park was ridiculously long. The crowd can detract from the experience. I would rather suggest combining the Tufa, Guinea Fowl and Leopard Trail hikes from the Blyde Canyon, A Forever Resort. There were only a few other hikers on the trail and for large parts of the hike I had the spectacular scenery all to myself. Certainly one of the most beautiful places in a country blessed with many. Highly recommended.
NatFan This place is as everyone stated. I saved an image for my profile pic I enjoyed it that much. It's a colorful, picturesque landscape that is also quite peaceful and relaxing. Toured it twice from above and then the river cruise. I did miss God's window due to intense fog. Make sure you check the weather conditions. Highly recommended.
Ueli Hartmann It was stunning! Nice drive which we did as part of a tour and the famous spot with the entire overview is breath taking. In my view, better than Grand Canyon much greener and alive ;)