阿奎拉野生动物保护区(Aquila Private Game Reserve)占地约1万公顷,是距离南非立法首都开普敦最近的一处非洲五霸(Big Five)观测点。对于那些没时间飞往北边克鲁格国家公园的游客来说,这里几乎成了必打卡的中转站。从市区开车出来大约176公里,只需要两小时左右,你就能从摩登的维多利亚阿尔伯特码头切换到半干旱的卡鲁地区荒原。虽然它属于私人领地且带有一定的商业度假性质,但对于想要在极短时间内看到狮子、大象、水牛、豹子和犀牛的人来说,阿奎拉的效率确实无人能敌。建议出发前查看官网最新信息以确认当日的入园配额。
很多人对南非地理有误解,觉得到处都是热带草原。其实阿奎拉所处的南卡鲁地区(Southern Karoo)属于半沙漠化地带,海拔相对较高,地表覆盖着低矮的灌木丛。这种地貌让搜寻动物变得直观很多,不像茂密的雨林那样总是在捉迷藏。这一万公顷的土地并非天然就拥有现在的物种密度,它是通过后期大量的生态修复和物种回迁才形成的。在这里驱车游猎,视野非常开阔,远处是连绵的群山,近处是土黄色的荒原,航拍镜头下有一种苍凉的电影感。
阿奎拉的存在其实是一个关于生态重塑的故事。早在1999年,这片土地的持有者就开始尝试将消失已久的野生动物重新引回西开普省。那个时候,这一带已经有250年没有见过野生的黑犀牛了。通过过去二十多年的努力,这里不仅成功引进了非洲五霸,还建立了自己的犀牛孤儿院,专门救助那些被盗猎者伤害的幼崽。如果你在游览时听导游讲起这些保育故事,你会发现阿奎拉不仅仅是一个看动物的地方,它更像是一个在现代文明边缘努力维持生态平衡的实验室。
在阿奎拉,最常规的项目是乘坐敞篷越野车进行两到三小时的驱车游猎。这种方式最稳妥,导游会带着对讲机互相通报动物位置,看到狮子捕食或者大象洗澡的概率很大。如果你胆子大一点,我特别建议尝试马背游猎(Horseback Safari)。坐在马背上平视长颈鹿和羚羊的感觉完全不同,动物们通常不会把马当作威胁,因此你能比坐车更接近它们。不过骑马项目对体重有严格限制,通常要求在95公斤以下,且不建议完全没有骑行经验的人在荒野尝试,毕竟这里的马虽然温顺,但也可能受惊。
很多朋友选择从开普敦出发的一日游,这就得算准时间。通常早上六点半左右你就得起床,因为大部分全日游行程在九点左右就开始了。包含午餐的一日游套餐通常在下午四点结束。说真的,下午两三点的时候卡鲁地区的太阳非常毒辣,哪怕是冬天,紫外线也不容小觑。如果不差钱也不赶时间,住一晚其实更划算。早晨六点出发的清晨游猎才是精华,那时候空气凉爽,食肉动物还没开始午睡,光线也最适合拍照。这时候冷到需要抱着热水杯,甚至得穿上保护区提供的厚毯子,这种温差感是南非荒野最真实的一面。
保护区的住宿分为标准间和独立木屋,如果你是带着孩子来,住木屋的体验感会拉满。这里有一个巨大的户外游泳池,被称为全南非最著名的湿地景观池之一。虽然你是在荒原上,但这里的餐食标准非常高,自助餐种类多到让你忘记自己身处人迹罕至的野外。钱的问题也得算清楚,住宿费通常包含了至少两次游猎和三顿正餐,算下来比单纯的一日游要划算。在这里过夜,晚上抬头就能看到南半球璀璨的星空,那种静谧感是开普敦市区绝对给不了的。
从开普敦走N1高速公路一路北上,全程约176公里,路况非常好。接近保护区时有一小段碎石路,普通小轿车也可以应付,不需要特意租四驱车。建议在进入山区前加满油,因为路上加油站间隔较远且偏僻。
虽然一年四季都能看到动物,但南非旱季(5月到9月)是最佳时间。这段时间植被稀疏,动物为了喝水会聚集在水源地附近,你甚至不用刻意寻找就能在水塘边看到河马和犀牛。此时虽然是冬季,但白天阳光充足,非常舒适。
只要待在敞篷游猎车里就是绝对安全的,动物已经习惯了这些巨大的钢铁方块,认为它们是景观的一部分。千万不要在游猎途中私自下车或把身体探出车外。保护区核心区有完善的围栏和巡逻人员,住宿区和动物活动区是严格分开的。
Jackie Flores Beautiful animals and property. Was greeted with local wine. Staff were kind and informative. Lunch was buffet style and delicious (not pictured). 2 hours from Cape Town. Very affordable alternative to the large parks. Saw more animals than what is pictured as well.
Rich FH Spent 3 days here recently, we loved it. We seen all of the big 5, driven around by knowledgeable guides who obviously genuinely care for the animals. Great food options at the buffets for all meal times. Rooms were nice and great balcony views of the park.
Henrietta Nagy We left satisfied, we were here in April. We took part in an afternoon and a morning safari, it was amazing, but be prepared with warm clothes! We could see almost each of the big five, except leopards and kaffir buffalo, but we could see many other animals, giraffe, ostrich, zebra, several types of antelopes. It was amazing! A fireplace in the restaurant provides warmth and atmosphere for dinner in the evening. The food is delicious, buffet delicacies await the guests. The rooms are adequately equipped, and can be heated with air conditioning at night, when the weather is colder.
Desiree Fourie I absolutely loved my time there. We stayed over night. The food buffet for lunch, supper and breakfast was lovely. Nice options and the beef stir-fry was so good. The game drive was amazing. Our tour guide was the best. He was funny and made sure to get as close as possible to all the animals, even the Lions. I think his name was Tina. We saw so many animals. The only big 5 we didnt see was the Leopard, but that was fine as what we did see was amazing. The staff were friendly esp the food staff. The room was pleasant. The out door shower in the freezing cold weather was actually so enjoyable. Overall, I would go back there in a heartbeat.
simon wood Had an incredible time here. If you go in knowing this isn't a proper safari, you will have a good time. The drivers were very knowledgeable and take care to drive you away from the other cars so often you catch quiet times watching the amazing animals. We were a little lost arriving. For day visits there is a separate reception past the canteen which we were not told about so struggled to find where we were meant to go. Provided food was okay, small buffet, can't really complain as it was included. Staff were all wonderful and so accommodating.