拉姆利海滩(Lumley Beach)坐落在塞拉利昂首都弗里敦西部,是一条全长约 4 公里的开阔沙滩。这里不收门票,全天对公众开放,是西非少见的城市与自然无缝衔接的场所。作为弗里敦(Freetown)的社交灵魂,这条海岸线不仅是当地人散步、踢球的去处,也集中了全市最高密度的酒店与海鲜餐厅。
从弗里敦市中心(Central)打车前往拉姆利海滩非常方便。如果选择塞拉利昂特有的黄色共享出租车,路程顺利的话每人只需要支付约 15 到 20 塞拉利昂利昂。若想图个清静选择包车,价格通常在 100 到 150 利昂之间,具体要看堵车程度。到了之后直接在海滨大道(Beach Road)任何一个路口下车就行。海滩边有专门的人行道,全线长达 4000 米左右,全程步行大概需要 50 分钟,建议体力一般的游客选一段风景好的走走即可。
想安静看海的人得赶在早晨 8 点前到。那时候沙滩上只有零星的晨跑者和收网的渔民。真正的热闹是从下午 4 点开始的,特别是周日下午,半个城市的人似乎都挤到了沙滩上。那时候能看到成百上千的年轻人在沙滩上踢足球,这也是塞拉利昂独特的街头文化。如果是为了看日落,建议 5 点半左右找个面朝大海的酒吧坐下。塞拉利昂地处西非,日落过程极快,天黑后的拉姆利海滩会迅速切换到夜生活模式。
海滨大道两旁分布着超过 20 家大大小小的餐厅。在高档餐厅点一份新鲜的烤大龙虾配薯条,价格通常在 350 到 500 塞拉利昂利昂之间。如果去路边简易的小摊位,价格能砍到一半,但卫生状况得自己掂量。当地最出名的星牌啤酒(Star Beer)在大排档卖 30 利昂左右,到了环境稍好的清吧可能会涨到 60 利昂。在这里点餐要有心理准备,厨师现抓现做的速度很慢,从点菜到上桌等上一小时是常有的事,千万别在饿极了的时候才进餐馆。
除了餐馆里的正餐,路边那些冒着烟的烤肉架才藏着灵魂。那种用报纸包着的苏亚(Suya)烤肉串非常入味,几块钱就能买到一大把。还有兜售新鲜椰子的摊位,一个椰子大概 15 利昂,摊主会当面帮你劈开。喝完汁水记得让他把椰子劈两半,挖里面的椰肉吃。这些路边摊通常不设找零,建议兜里多揣点 5 利昂、10 利昂的小额钞票。
拉姆利海滩的沙质虽然细软,但并不太适合长距离游泳。由于这里直接面对大西洋,海浪力量很大,且水下时常有强劲的离岸流。当地并没有专职的救生员执勤,所以下水玩耍最好就在浅滩处。特别要避开那些排水管出口附近区域,那里的水质并不理想。如果真的很想游泳,建议去海滩北端那些带私人泳池的酒店,或者多开车一小时去更南边的约翰奥比海滩(John Obey Beach)。
虽说拉姆利海滩是旅游区,但基本的警惕性不能丢。在沙滩上拍照时,要留神身边的背包。当地小男孩可能会围过来找你聊天或者表演杂技,大多数并无恶意,但趁机讨钱或顺手牵羊的情况也时有发生。太阳落山后,海滨大道上虽有 2013 年安装的太阳能路灯,但光线依然比较昏暗。晚上 9 点以后不建议在沙滩的无人区行走,待在人多的酒吧或餐馆区域通常是安全的。
这里是完全开放的公共资源,不需要购买任何形式的门票。如果你遇到有人穿制服拦路收门票钱,那一定是骗子,直接拒绝即可。只有进入特定的海滨度假村或私人俱乐部才可能需要支付低额的入场费,普通沙滩区域完全免费。
拉姆利海滩周边的几家大型酒店和超市都有 ATM 机,但能不能取出钱全看运气。绝大多数餐厅和摊位只接受现金,建议在出门前就在市区银行换好足够的塞拉利昂利昂。只有少数几家顶级饭店支持 Visa 刷卡,且通常会额外收取约 3% 到 5% 的手续费。
公共区域几乎找不到像样的公共厕所。最体面的办法是进一家看起来还不错的餐厅或酒吧,点一瓶饮料,然后使用店内的洗手间。这种非正式的规则在当地很通行。如果只是想冲掉脚上的沙子,有些餐厅门口会放桶水或者有简易水龙头,可以象征性给看管人 2 到 5 利昂的小费。
避开每年 6 月到 9 月的雨季是关键,那时候弗里敦经常遭遇暴雨,海边的风浪大到能把路基掏空。最佳访问时间是 11 月到次年 4 月的旱季,天气虽然热,但每天都是大晴天,海水颜色也最蓝,非常适合在户外活动。
拍摄普通风景没问题,但如果你要拍特定的人,最好先点头示意征得对方同意,有些当地人比较忌讳镜头,或者会为此索要报酬。至于无人机,塞拉利昂目前对非商业性质的航拍管控不算极严,但在海滩这种人流密集区和靠近大使馆区的地方,最好低调操作,避免引起不必要的盘查。
Coach Abdul The Serene and peaceful environment, especially during the early morning, make it a good avenue for motivational meditation, exercises, and other physical and spiritual activities. Indeed, the area has a conducive atmosphere that is worth visiting and enjoying. It's a very enjoyable session we shared there. Be there and enjoy nature's gift. Whenever in Freetown, don't ever forget lumley Beach. Coach Abdul.
D Rampant development with no building control, oversight nor quality. A few nice bars and restaurants, but mostly ones you'd rather avoid. Being a city beach it's quite dirty, and like any of Sierra Leone's beaches, depending on what time of year you go will depend on how much litter you will find - including medical waste and glass so be careful.
Emmanuel Feyisetan It's free, it's accessible, varied restaurants and hotels all around. It's a melting pot of entertainment and leisure in Freetown. The view at night from the 5th floor restaurant of Sierra Palms hotel is amazing! The photos will show that. The beach needs more litter picking hands though.
Richard Ngebeh Lumley Beach is a place alone the Beach Road to Aberdeen, Freetown. This beach is one of the most popular beaches around Freetown. The beach area is always kept clean. There are a lots of restaurants, malls, bars, and other amusing places where you can by yourself a whisky and almost every food type. And if you are a gulf player or fan, you could have less to worry about as the the country's gulf club is just a stone throw away. This place has a fine beach sand. The tide level increases in the evening. The Lumley Beach is motor accessible. Here you can have fun doing basic sport activities like juggling, gym,... The beach is attracted by tourists and other people. It's always safer out here. Along here, you can also come in contact with Fishermen catching and selling fishes. The air in this place cool and refreshing. I often visit this place at least once a month.
Krutarth Rindani A very long stretch of wonderful beach. One of the best places in Freetown. Crowded on weekends on what is otherwise a peaceful place. The whole stretch is filled with some great restaurants and cafes/bars which makes Sunday night atmosphere so chilling. People throng the beach on public holidays and make the whole street best place to chill. But need to keep the beach a bit more clean.