班迪亚保护区(Bandia Reserve)位于塞内加尔首都达喀尔以东大约65公里的地方。它是这个国家第一个私人自然保护区,占地面积将近3500公顷。对于那些在西非旅行但没时间去东非或南非进行大型游猎的人来说,这里是近距离接触非洲大型野生动物的最佳窗口。你可以在这里看到白犀牛、长颈鹿、斑马以及多种羚羊。整个园区被铁丝网围起,形成了一个相对封闭但生态系统完整的半开放式野外环境。从达喀尔市区或者萨利海滨度假区(Saly)出发,通常只需要一个小时到一个半小时的车程就能到达门口。相比那些需要长途跋涉的原始国家公园,这里更像是一个能够轻松实现的一日游目的地。前150字内我们直接给出最关键的数据:成人入场费是12000西非法郎(约合18.5欧元),而儿童票则是7000法郎。
班迪亚保护区的建立始于1990年。当时的初衷是为了找回塞内加尔由于过度狩猎和栖息地丧失而消失的原生物种。园方从南非等地引进了一系列动物,让它们在这片布满了巨大的猴面包树、刺槐和灌木丛的土地上繁衍生息。如今这里已经形成了非常稳定的种群,除了标志性的白犀牛(White Rhino),你还能见到巨型旋角羚(Giant Eland)、黑马羚以及各种叫不出名字的鸟类。虽然这里的动物并非处于完全野生的迁徙状态,但它们在广阔的树丛间自由穿行,行为举止依然保持着野性。这片土地的植被层次非常丰富,特别是那些动辄几百年甚至上千年树龄的猴面包树,不仅是动物们的避暑胜地,也构成了典型的西非稀树草原景观。
说到交通,最方便的方式还是走A1高速公路。如果你从达喀尔出发,一定要注意在14号出口(Sindia/Popenguine)下高速,然后按照Sindia方向行驶大约2公里,随后右转进入N1国道往姆布尔(Mbour)方向开个3公里左右。你会看到路边有非常明显的指示牌引导你进入土路。这段土路大概有800米长,普通的轿车在旱季慢慢开过去也没问题。要是你住在萨利度假区,那路程就更短了,只有15公里左右,打个车也就20分钟。很多游客会选择租用当地的出租车包日往返,这种方式比报正规旅行社的团要便宜不少,但记得要提前跟司机谈好是否包含在公园内的驱车费用,因为车辆进园本身也是要收费的。
钱的问题咱得算清楚,班迪亚的收费项目分得比较细。首先是人头票,大人12000西非法郎,3到12岁的孩子7000法郎。但这只是入场券。只要你想开车进园看动物,就必须交一个10000法郎的车辆进园费,这适用于你自己租的车、出租车或者私家车。最重要的一点是,园区规定每辆进入的车辆必须雇佣一名官方专业向导,这笔向导费是每车6500法郎,不管你车上坐的是一个人还是十个人,这笔钱都省不掉。向导非常有必要,因为他们眼尖,能一眼看到藏在灌木丛深处的犀牛或者枯树枝上的鸟类。如果没有他们带路,你很可能在园区里转两圈却只能看到几只猴子。
如果你没有自己的车,或者你的车不是越野车,到了园区门口可以租用那种敞篷的Safari游猎卡车。这种车视野极好,拍照不受挡风玻璃的影响。11座的卡车租金大约是40000法郎,如果你是大家庭或者跟别人拼车,分摊下来其实很划算。要是你带的人更多,还有24座的大家伙,租金是60000法郎。需要提醒的是,在7月到10月的雨季期间,园区内的路面会变得非常泥泞,普通的家用车基本没法走,这时候强制要求使用四驱越野车。所以如果你是雨季去,要么自己开4x4,要么就得在门口花钱租园方的专业卡车。说真的,为了拍照效果和安全性,租园方的车体验会提升一大截。
这里的游猎行程通常需要2到3个小时。班迪亚的明星显然是白犀牛,这里的犀牛体型巨大且性格相对温顺,只要向导判断安全,有时候甚至会允许你下车在几米远的地方步行拍照。当然,这必须严格听从指挥,因为雄性犀牛脾气上来了可不是闹着玩的。长颈鹿则是这里的颜值担当,你会看到它们优雅地伸长脖子啃食猴面包树的叶子。除了这些大家伙,还有成群的斑马在草地上慢悠悠地晃荡,以及长得像恐龙缩小版的鸵鸟。特别要留意那些公鸵鸟,它们在繁殖期会变得很有攻击性,离远点比较稳妥。水池边经常能看到堆在一起的鳄鱼,动都不动一下,看着跟假模型似的,但它们那股野性气场还是挺唬人。
这点很多人不知道,班迪亚保护区里其实还藏着文化遗址。向导会带你去看一棵有着1000年树龄的巨大猴面包树。这棵树的树干是中空的,以前被当地的格里奥(Griot,西非传统的口述历史学家或游吟诗人)当作墓穴。在某些西非文化里,这些地位特殊的人死后是不埋进土里的,而是葬在树洞中。现在树洞里还能看到一些人类骨骼的残迹,配合着周围荒凉的景象,确实有一种很震撼的历史感。此外,园区内还仿建了一些赛雷尔人(Serer)的传统金字塔建筑。这种自然景观与民族历史的结合,让这里的游览不仅仅是看个新鲜,还能顺带了解一下塞内加尔的传统文化根基。
班迪亚保护区每天早上8点开门,下午6点关门。最佳的入园时间绝对是清晨,最好8点准时到。那时候气温还算凉爽,动物们也最活跃,都在四处觅食。如果你拖到中午12点才到,那迎接你的除了暴晒,还有一堆躲在树荫底下睡觉、怎么喊都不动的动物。下午4点左右也是个不错的选择,光线柔和,非常适合拍照,而且动物们会在黄昏前再次出来活动。有一点得说明,班迪亚的主园区里是没有狮子的,所以你不用担心安全问题。如果你想看狮子,需要去马路对面的狮子保护区(Lion Ranch),那是另一个独立的收费项目,两边是不互通的,去之前先想好要不要多掏那份钱。
逛累了之后,园区出口附近有一个环境非常棒的餐厅。餐厅直接建在水池边,你可以一边吃着塞内加尔传统的烤鱼(Poissson grillé),一边看对岸的鳄鱼晒太阳。不过这里的猴子特别嚣张,它们会趁你不注意直接从餐桌上抢走面包或者水果,所以吃饭的时候一定要看护好自己的东西。价格方面,景区的餐厅自然比外面贵一些,每人消费大概在10000到15000法郎之间。建议自备一些饮用水,毕竟在烈日下晒两个小时还是挺消耗体力的。至于防晒,那是必须的,哪怕你坐在有棚子的卡车里,紫外线依然很强。最后记得给带路的向导一点小费,一般给个2000到5000法郎就是很体面的感谢了。
成人票价为12000西非法郎,12岁以下儿童为7000法郎。除了人头费,如果开私家车进入需要额外支付10000法郎的车辆费,且每辆车必须强制雇佣一名6500法郎的官方向导。这些费用通常只接受现金(法郎或欧元)或者信用卡,但为了保险起见,建议带足现金备用。
两地距离约65公里,路况较好,通常开车1小时到1.5小时即可到达。建议选择清晨出发以避开达喀尔市中心严重的交通拥堵,如果你打算上午8点入园,最好在6点半左右就开始动身。由于靠近高速公路出口,自驾或包车都非常顺畅。
班迪亚主园区内并没有完整的非洲五霸,这里看不到大象、豹子和狮子。你可以看到犀牛和水牛,但大象和狮子需要前往其他特定的保护区。如果你对狮子感兴趣,可以前往附近的狮子农场(Ranch de Bandia),那里是专门圈养狮子的区域,但需要单独购票进入。
如果你是散客或者是几个人自驾前往,通常不需要提前预约,直接在售票处买票入场即可。园内的Safari卡车也是即到即租,先到先得。只有在11月到次年5月的旅游旺季,或者是规模很大的团体游,才建议提前通过官方网站或电话联系确认是否有足够的大型卡车供租赁。
在11月至次年6月的旱季,主园区的道路虽然是土路,但维护得相对平整,普通的家用小轿车是可以慢慢行驶通过的。然而在7月至10月的雨季,部分路段会变得非常泥泞甚至积水,此时园方会强制要求使用四驱越野车(4x4)进入,否则无法确保行车安全。建议在雨季直接租用园方的专用开放式卡车体验更好。
Tina Eickhoff It is for sure not like a safari, but I really enjoyed it ! It is low season in September so I had a guide for myself and went alone in the truck, which was great ! I loved all the birds, and seeing the white rhinos, and specially the big baobas !
Pedro Vera Obrador Beautiful place with animals. We paid 30.000 CFA pp after sharing the car with a local family. The guide ruined our tour, he didn't speak or explain enough and when he dit it was so low we couldn't even hear him. Also he randomly and weirdly decided when to continue the tour. We were right next to the rhinos and he decided to drive away after only 30 seconds, then he decided to spend minutes next to some sleeping antelopes. It was very frustrating. I think other guides are different, we were unlucky. The place is nice with beautiful trees and many different animals ( giraffes, monkeys, zebras, rhinos, impalas, lizards etc)
Asabea Niampoma It's a very big reserve which has a lot of animal species to marvel at. There are vehicles and guides to tour around with tourists who are very knowledgeable in the history of the animals. Lots of winding routes, which may make you feel lost, but the drivers know the way. Saw rhinos, hyenas, buffalos, ostriches, monkeys and girrafs. The giraffs especially look more graceful and elegant as opposed to seeing them in pictures and on television. It was an amazing experience and I wouldn't mind going there again to see the lions this time.
Sergio Martins I consider the visit to the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, very well worth it. It was an extraordinary experience that I highly recommend to any nature and wildlife enthusiast. This expansive natural reserve, where animals roam freely, offers a unique and immersive safari adventure. The reserve is home to a variety of wildlife, including rhinos, warthogs, hyenas, crocodiles, zebras, giraffes, antelopes, sable antelopes, impalas, monkeys, and more. The safari was well-organized, and the vehicles provided a comfortable and safe way to explore the vast reserve. In addition to the incredible wildlife, the reserve is home to extraordinary baobab trees, which are iconic and prevalent throughout much of Senegal. These ancient and majestic trees added a magical quality to the landscape, enhancing the overall experience.
A.M.M. The wildlife reserve, teeming with diverse animals, offers an immersive experience for nature enthusiasts. With well-organized safari vehicles, visitors can explore the vast expanse of the reserve while observing its vibrant inhabitants in their natural habitat. The reserve's infrastructure includes a restaurant where guests can enjoy meals and beverages, providing a convenient respite during their adventure. Additionally, a dedicated shop offers shopping opportunities for souvenirs and essentials. One of the unique features of the reserve is the proximity of the restaurant to the crocodile enclosure, offering diners a thrilling view of these ancient reptiles while enjoying their meals. The presence of numerous monkeys adds to the charm of the experience, as visitors may encounter these playful creatures throughout the reserve. The hospitality of the staff enhances the overall experience, with friendly and welcoming individuals eager to assist guests and share their knowledge of the reserve's flora and fauna. Whether it's recommending the best vantage points for wildlife sightings or providing insights into the behavior of the resident animals, the staff's expertise enriches visitors' understanding and appreciation of the reserve's ecosystem. Overall, the wildlife reserve is a must-visit destination for anyone seeking an unforgettable encounter with nature. From the exhilarating safari drives to the unique dining experiences and encounters with wildlife, every aspect of the reserve promises excitement and adventure. With its combination of natural beauty, excellent amenities, and warm hospitality, the reserve leaves a lasting impression on all who have the privilege of exploring its wonders.