奥孙-奥索博神树林位于尼日利亚西南部奥孙州的首府奥索博郊区,是约鲁巴文化中极其罕见的原始林区。这片占地大约75公顷的保护区在2005年被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录,核心区域保留了大量的神龛、雕塑和祭坛。作为约鲁巴神话中河神奥孙的居所,这片树林不仅是宗教中心,也是当地生物多样性的避风难所。从拉各斯出发驱车前往大约需要4到5个小时,行程约230公里,路况复杂多变,建议避开雨季核心月份出行。
走进这片神树林的第一感受是气温骤降,茂密的原始森林遮蔽了西非毒辣的阳光。在约鲁巴人的传统里,每一棵参天大树都可能居住着神灵。历史上这类神圣树林遍布约鲁巴地区,但随着城镇化和伐木,奥孙-奥索博成为了最后的幸存者。林中蜿蜒流淌着奥孙河,河水呈现出一种深沉的棕绿色,当地人相信河水拥有治愈力量。你可以看到白喉长尾猴在枝头跳跃,它们被视为神灵的信使,严禁捕猎。
林中那40多处形态诡谲的巨型雕塑出自奥地利艺术家苏珊·温格之手。这位被称为阿杜妮·奥洛里沙的女性在20世纪50年代来到这里,终其一生致力于保护这片圣地。她与当地艺术家合作,用土砖、水泥和铁条创作了极具张力的建筑。这些作品摒弃了直线,充满了螺旋和流动的感官体验。比如那一组巨大的圣林大门,看起来像是从地里长出来的怪物,这种风格在整个非洲大陆都是独一无二的。
圣林中散布着多个核心祭祀区,其中最重要的祭坛靠近河岸。这里有15个祭坛专门供奉不同的约鲁巴神灵。每年奥孙河神节期间,由被称为阿塔奥嘉的奥索博国王带领的队伍会来到这里。你会在树根处看到散落的祭品,比如坚果或干鱼。请务必尊重这些区域,不要跨越栅栏或随意触摸石块,因为很多地方依然是正在使用的祭祀场所。
每年的8月是神树林最热闹的时候,为期两周的奥孙-奥索博节会在8月的最后一个周五达到高潮。那时会有成千上万的信徒从全球各地涌来。如果你喜欢清静,最好避开8月,选择11月到次年2月的旱季。早晨9点左右抵达是比较理想的,森林里的晨雾还没散去,光线穿透树叶洒在雕塑上,拍照非常出片。不过早晚蚊虫极多,强效避蚊水是救命的东西。
目前的门票策略对外国游客和本地人有巨大差异。外国成年游客的门票大约在1000到2000奈拉之间,但真正的开支通常在相机费上。如果你打算带专业相机进入,管理处会要求额外支付数千奈拉的摄影许可费。带手机拍摄虽然管得松一些,但偶尔也会被工作人员提醒补票。进入景区后会有不少当地向导主动凑上来,给个2000奈拉左右的小费让他们带路是值得的,否则你很难在密林里找到那些隐藏在灌木丛深处的小型神龛。
从奥索博市中心到神树林门口只有几公里的路程,可以搭乘当地的奥达卡机动三轮车或者出租车。自驾的话,林门口有简易的停车区。安全方面,虽然神树林本身环境相对单纯,但奥孙州周边的治安情况偶尔会有波动,出发前最好确认当地的安全播报。另外,千万不要试图带走林中的任何植物、石头甚至河水,门口的保安会开包检查,而且在当地信仰中,带走圣地的东西被认为会招致不幸。
外国游客的入场费通常在2000奈拉左右,但价格会随政策变动。最需要注意的是专业摄影许可,费用可能比门票贵出数倍。建议准备好充足的奈拉现金,现场基本无法使用电子支付或刷卡。
祭典期间人流量极大,核心河岸区域非常拥挤。一定要看管好个人财物,尽量结伴而行。拍摄祭典过程前最好征得周围信徒的同意,某些极其神圣的仪式环节是严禁照相的。
理论上可以,但体感会非常痛苦。单程路程约230公里,受限于路况和堵车,往返至少需要10小时。建议在奥索博市区住一晚,市内的传统市场也值得逛逛,这样第二天清晨进林子的体验感会好很多。
这里的长尾猴习惯了人类存在,通常不会主动攻击。但不要在它们面前翻找食物袋,也不要直接投喂,否则它们会成群结队地抢夺你的背包。保持适当距离观赏即可,它们受当地法律和信仰的双重保护。
Adeyinka Adeyemi Easy to locate and cheap entry fee (500 naira as at today 12th Ocotber, 2024). We had to pay 1,500 naira to take our phones in for a group of 5. It was so fun visiting and listening to the history about this place. The serenity of the atmosphere, the rich leaves filled trees and the monkeys jumping are a sight to behold. Pictures does not really do justice. If you're a fan of historic places, this is a must visit
Wole Awe Words cannot describe it. It was an awesome experience. Colour, culture and tradition, in vibrant energy were united - a beauty of tremendous joy. The attendees - never seen just a multitude of a joyous people basking in the ancient heritage of our people. White is the colour of Osun -the generous goddess of splendor, fertility and prosperity. Many things to do to make subsequent Osun Festival greater. I would suggest: Medical teams to be on ground. Directional signs. Background information of the carvings. Access control. This festival is now on my calendar. See you next year. Ase Edumare.
Arinka Travels An historic spiritual arena which artistically informs you of the culture and history the grove holds. Susan Wegner of blessed memory made this beautiful and mind blowing sculptures. Here is where all worshippers and believers of Osun around the world gather yearly to celebrate the Osun Osogbo festival 🎎 Like and Follow us at ArinkaTravels across all social media platforms for more attractions
Sodunke Moyosoreoluwa Samuel The Osun-Osogbo Grove is several centuries old and is among the last of the sacred forests that once adjoined the edges of most Yoruba cities before extensive urbanization. The Osun Sacred Grove is the largest and perhaps the only remaining example of a once widespread phenomenon that used to characterise every Yoruba settlement. It now represents Yoruba sacred Groves and their reflection of Yoruba cosmology. Prohibited actions like fishing, hunting and falling of trees in the Grove was done indiscriminately until an Austrian national named Susanne Wenger (1915-2009) helped to reinstate traditional protections. With the support and encouragement of the Ataoja (the royal king of the time) and the support of the concerned local people. Wenger "formed the New Sacred Art movement to challenge land speculators, repel poachers, protect shrines and begin the long process of bringing the sacred place back to life by establishing it again, as the sacred heart of Osogbo". Wenger later came to be honoured the titled "Adunni Olorisha" for her custodial efforts and her consistent devotion to the gods of the grove. Ever since that year, the Osun-Osogbo Festival has been celebrated in August at the Grove. The festival attracts thousands of Osun worshippers, spectators and tourists from all over the world. FEW FACT ABOUT THIS PLACE - Don’t Make promises that you won’t fulfill while praying at the Osun Oshogo river and if you do kindly fulfill - There are a lot of sculptures which I actually appreciate the creative and beautiful work of art, but each piece of sculpture have their stories and what they represent. This sculptures also show the authenticity and spirituality of the grove. - We got to a point that you must be very careful with your utterance. - There are a lot of shrines for different gods like ESU (In Ifa metaphysics, esu is the Divine Messenger; the Spirit who allows humans to communicate with Spirit), SOPONO (god of smallpox in yoruba), SANGO (the solar and thunder divinity, the lightning god) AND MANY OTHERS. - There are a lot of monkey so get a lot of bananas while coming for this creatures because we did This Place is a Spiritual Environment which I’ll commend the work UNESCO World Heritage Centre, Osun state Government and The Ministry of Culture and Tourism for keeping the environment clean, safe, peace and sustainable. I hope you also find time to see and behold this beautiful yoruba cultural heritage.
Mohammed Abubakar The Osun Osogbo grove also includes an art village with tye and dye, paintings, wood carvings, drums and other arts and crafts. its totally worth a visit In recognition of its global significance and its cultural value, the Sacred Grove was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. The repositioning of Osun-Osogbo Scared Grove as a cultural and tourism destination will not be complete without mentioning the role played by an Austrian national named Susanne Wenger (1915-2009) who helped to reinstate traditional protection