位于尼日利亚东南部的夸瀑布(Kwa Falls)是大夸河(Great Kwa River)的一处自然奇观。它坐落在跨河州(Cross River State)的阿坎巴(Akamkpa)地方政府区域,深藏在跨河州国家公园的奥班分区(Oban Division)内。虽然名字在国际上不算响亮,但对于来到卡拉巴尔(Calabar)的旅行者来说,这里是少有的能让人瞬间逃离城市喧嚣的去处。这道瀑布最标志性的特征不是高度,而是那延伸至深潭边缘的234级台阶,以及四周被热带雨林环绕的静谧感。
夸瀑布距离卡拉巴尔市中心大约25公里。如果是自驾或者包车,走阿坎巴公路(Akamkpa Road)通常需要45分钟到一小时。这条路在旱季相对好走,但如果是雨季,路面的坑洼处可能会积水,车速得放慢不少。当地人更习惯称这里为尼日利亚的天然氧吧,因为一出城,空气里的泥土清香和植被气息就会明显浓郁起来。
想省事的朋友建议直接在卡拉巴尔市区找一辆出租车包来回。2024年的参考价格通常在15000到25000奈拉之间,具体要看你磨嘴皮子的功夫和在景点停留的时间。虽然有当地的小巴(Minibus)往返于阿坎巴方向,但下车点距离瀑布入口还有一段距离,对于第一次去的游客来说,寻找摩托车接驳并不算方便,安全性也难保障。
夸瀑布发源于大夸河,水流从起伏的岩石坡面上倾泻而下,形成了一个巨大的深绿色潭水区。这里的岩石构造非常古老,水流长年累月的冲刷让岩体表面变得异常光滑。站在潭边你会发现,这里的瀑布并不像那种飞流直下的垂直落差,而更像是一系列急促的跌水。如果你选在11月到次年3月的旱季过来,水流会显得温婉许多,甚至能看到水底的石块。到了雨季,水量会猛增,轰鸣声在山谷里回荡,气势完全不同。
很多来这里的人都是冲着那234级台阶去的。这些台阶是多年前为了方便游客亲近瀑布而修建的,一路向下直达潭水边缘。走下去的时候你可能会觉得很轻松,甚至还有心情拍拍路边的蕨类植物,但爬上来绝对是另一回事。当地的高温高湿环境会让你的体力消耗比平时快一倍,建议随身多带两瓶矿泉水。台阶表面有些地方因为潮湿长了青苔,尤其是靠近水潭的那几段,下脚一定要踩稳,最好穿那种抓地力强的运动鞋。
进入夸瀑布景区是需要买票的,目前对于普通游客的收费大约在500到1000奈拉之间。这个价格经常变动,本地人和外籍人士的定价标准有时也不统一。景区门口的售票处通常只收现金,山上信号不好,想用手机银行转账基本上是看运气。除了门票,如果你需要向导带路或者在河边野餐区租用座位,可能还得额外付一笔几百奈拉的小钱。记得提前换好零钱,这里很难找开大额钞票。
想拍出清澈水潭的朋友,务必选在12月到1月份左右。这段时间是尼日利亚的旱季,天空通透,瀑布的水色呈现出迷人的深翠绿。如果等到6月到8月的雨季高峰,河水会因为携带了上游的泥沙而变得浑浊黄褐,虽然水量惊人,但美感确实大打折扣。另外,尽量避开周末下午,那是当地人携家带口出来郊游的高峰期。最好在上午10点左右到达,这时候阳光刚好照进峡谷,不仅拍照光线好,人也少,能独享整片森林的宁静。
虽然有些当地人会在潭水中嬉戏,但原则上不建议游客随意下水。水潭中心位置水深不可测,且水底岩石情况复杂,由于没有配备专业的救生员,发生溺水事故的风险较高。如果实在想玩水,在岸边岩石区踩一踩清凉的溪水即可,切记不要游向瀑布中心喷涌处。
景区内基本没有正式的餐厅,只有极少数卖瓶装水和简易零食的小摊位。如果你计划在这里待上一整个下午,最好从卡拉巴尔市区提前买好三明治、面包和充足的饮用水。带走的垃圾请随身带离景区,这里的环卫管理比较原始,保护这片雨林全靠游客自觉。
由于夸瀑布位于跨河州国家公园边缘,你可以考虑将它与卡拉巴尔市内的奴隶博物馆(Slave History Museum)或廷帕帕度假村(Tinapa Business Resort)排在同一天的行程里。不过考虑到往返路程和体力消耗,把上午的时间留给瀑布,下午回城喝一杯当地特色的胡椒汤(Pepper Soup)是更明智的选择。
Bright Davies uganwa Amazing place to visit as a tourist or an adventurers. The beautiful mangroves with wildlife so beautiful to behold. The splash of colours from the fall gives you a magnificent feeling.
Tracy Solomon Is it beautiful? Yes!!! It's more adventurous during the dry season as the water level is low & you're able to explore more & move with ease
Samuelson Okoi Needs renovation, wouldn't recommend you pass the night in that open place, do well to carry a sweater or hoodie for cold and socks to protect your legs from the mosquitoes as well. A good repellant won't be bad, go with snacks too as there are no places to buy those apart from town. Ummm! Your sneakers shouldn't have an all flat sole to enable you hike without slipping and please keep off the wave, it could result to lose of life.
Emordama A truly beautiful site to encounter nature in its fullness. Massive water bodies fall down the heavy rocks forming a stream with unknown depth as it flows down. Large tree canopies surround this area. And it is truly an adventurous walk down to this waterfall. It's a beautiful place to capture if you love nature. You'll be blown away. I loved the energy of the water. We gathered that the rocks you can see now will be covered by water in the leak of the rainy season. I cannot imagine that sight, but I'm sure it will be beautiful. This place is not for the weak. There are lots of sunflies that will make it rather uncomfortable. Make sure to have insect repellent or another alternative. Don't forget to share your pictures when you visit. It's in Akamkpa though. Enjoy!
Oladapo Razaq This is an excellent location to feel nature, the water fall, the awesome views, I saw a rainbow too. Oh and there was this little boy who took us around, I was amazed at his diction, his English was very smooth and he carefully pronounced every word, I honestly think hes wasting away in that remote place. I hope he moves to the city soon.