想要在马达加斯加短暂停留期间看齐各种狐猴,位于首都塔那那利佛以西约22公里的狐猴公园(Lemur Park)是个实惠的选择。这片占地5公顷的私人保护区坐落在1号国道(RN1)旁,海拔大约1200米,由植物学家劳伦特·阿穆里克(Laurent Amouric)在1999年左右参与创办。虽然面积不算广阔,但它解决了游客去远郊国家公园的舟车劳顿。这里的狐猴并非关在笼子里,而是自由自在地穿梭在特有的热带干燥林与灌木丛中。建议出发前查看官网最新信息,目前的成人票价大约在50,000阿里亚里左右。
公园里生活着9种马达加斯加特有的狐猴,它们大多是因为失去栖息地或被救助而迁居于此。由于公园并不算大,这些小家伙对人类已经相当熟悉。你刚走进园区没多久,可能就能在树权间看到极具明星气质的环尾狐猴(Ring-tailed Lemur)。这种狐猴黑白相间的长尾巴非常显眼,它们喜欢在地面上活动,性格相对外向,运气好的话能看到它们像是在打坐一样张开双臂晒太阳。除了常见的环尾狐猴,这里还生活着黑白领狐猴、獴狐猴和褐狐猴,观察它们的进食习惯是很有意思的事情。
最让人期待的莫过于看跳舞狐猴(Sifaka)表演。由于它们的后肢力量极大且结构特殊,在地面移动时没法像普通猴子那样四足行走,只能侧着身子在地上蹦跳,看起来确实像在跳一种独特的交谊舞。这种画面在野外很难捕捉,但在狐猴公园里,由于活动范围相对集中,见到的概率大增。这里的动物基本保持了野性,工作人员会提醒你保持几米的距离,不要尝试喂食或触摸。如果你在下午两点左右到达,通常能碰上它们的集体加餐时间,那时候狐猴会从树顶滑降到地面或者低处的灌木丛,场面非常热闹。
很多人来这里单纯为了狐猴,其实园内的植物景观同样硬核。园方种植了数千株马达加斯加独有的植物,尤其是那些外形诡异的肉质植物。你会看到各种形态的龙舌兰、高大的仙人掌以及像电线杆一样长满长刺的亚龙木(Alluaudia)。马达加斯加南部的刺森林景观在首都附近很难见到,狐猴公园通过人工引种,把这片奇特的植被浓缩在了5公顷的土地上。这里的植物不仅是景观,也为狐猴提供了天然的掩体和果实来源。对于没有时间去南方博瑞拉或者奇灵地森林的游客来说,这算是一个极佳的平替版窗口。
穿过这一片片带刺的灌木林时,别忘了抬头看看树梢上的变色龙。除了狐猴,这里也栖息着不少爬行动物和色彩斑斓的鸟类。园区内部步道修得比较平整,但因为地面多是红土和碎石,建议穿抓地力好一点的鞋子。在雨季的时候,步道会变得有些泥泞。如果你对植物感兴趣,可以请一位园内的导游随行,他们能精准叫出那些看起来像枯树枝其实是罕见多肉植物的名字。由于园区紧邻河流,水汽充足,这里的植被生长得比市区周边更加茂密,空气也清新不少。
说到去狐猴公园的方法,包车是最省心的方案。虽然理论上可以坐当地的小巴(Taxi-be),但你得在嘈杂的车站折腾半天,而且车站距离园区入口还有一段距离。包一辆出租车从市区出发,往返加上等待时间,价格大约在10万到15万阿里亚里之间。千万别低估了塔那那利佛的交通拥堵程度,不到30公里的路,不堵车时1小时能到,一旦早晚高峰撞上,堵两个小时也不稀奇。建议早上9点准时从市区出发,赶在中午前入园,这样能避开午后最闷热的时段,也能给回程留出充足的时间。
钱的问题也得提前算好。园内的纪念品商店出售一些草编包和木雕,虽然工艺尚可,但价格普遍高于市区的集市。如果你看中了某种手工艺品,可以适当讲讲价,但幅度不会像地摊上那么大。至于安全问题,园区内部非常安全,但回程路上建议关好车窗,尤其是在经过人群密集的集市区域。对于摄影爱好者来说,长焦镜头在这里不是必须的,因为狐猴离人真的很近,一个中焦镜头就能拍出效果极佳的肖像。记得带上防蚊液,河边的蚊子偶尔会非常热情。
2024年的最新成人门票价格大约在50,000阿里亚里左右,折合人民币约80元。儿童票会有一定程度的减免,具体的实时票价建议在入口处的售票窗口确认,只接受当地货币现金支付。
公园每天早上9:00准时开门迎客,下午16:00停止入园。建议在上午10点之前到达,因为这段时间狐猴比较活跃,到了中午高温时段,它们大多会躲在浓密的树荫里睡觉,不容易看清细节。
最推荐的交通方式是包车,往返价格通常在10万阿里亚里以上,司机可以在门口等候。如果你想体验当地生活,可以去Fasan'ny Karana车站坐前往Arivonimamo方向的小巴,在Lemur Park站下车,但这种方式非常耗时且不适合带大件行李。
可以,这里是全马达加斯加近距离拍摄维氏冕狐猴(Sifaka)跳舞最容易的地方之一。这种狐猴在地面移动时会采用独特的侧跳步,由于它们已经适应了游客的存在,通常会在步道附近的开阔地表演这种独特的步伐。
Rohan Hariharan They have 5 different species of lemurs that are free-range. The guides are knowledgeable and make an effort to get you close to the animals.
Mona Because it is a small park, I was able to reach lemurs quickly. They offer car transfer that helped me because I didn't know how to use public transportation to reach the park. The park is small and the tour ends quickly. No real time for taking pictures. Besides, I was a solo visitor and the accept for car transfer two or more, which made me wait for some time until they told me I can use the park with some other visitors. Other than this, I liked the visit.
CK Cheong Nice experience visiting the Lemurs Park. This is a small botanical garden and lemur reserve covering 12 acres, and is located 22 km southwest of Antananarivo, Madagascar.
Kokica Bokica Great sanctuary park We booked over official website tour with included transportation, guide, lunch ( great food) and drink.. Deal was supper good, driver came on time as it can be quite long drive to the park due to bad roads and traffic. We visited at the end of our two weeks tour where we previously saw lemurs in nature, so at the beginning we felt sad seeing rescued animals that was captured due to humans egoism. Park is doing their best to recover them and some of them get ready for go back in the natural habitat ( unfortunately small percentage, but at least young once). We saw 5 different kinds of lemurs, turtle and chameleons. Highly recommend to visit and support this park.
Michael Machado I would highly recommend a visit to this Park. It is located about 1-1/2 hour drive from downtown Tana. It is a Private Sanctuary started over 22 years ago by a few French and Japanese ex-pats. All the Lemurs were rescued from private owners as it is illegal to own them. Because of there rescue they can not be released back into the wild. They go through a rewilding process but can never take care of themselves. They are well taken care of. They are fed and have Vet visit around once per week. They are free to roam on the 5 hectares. There are approximately 70 and they are multiple different kinds of Lemurs. They co exist but in small family groups. What is great about coming here is that the Lemurs are not very fearful of humans so they will scurry around you and will not run if you are but 3 ft away. You can get some very closeup pictures. Cost to get is 70 Ariary and is open from 9 am to 4 pm. There is no real set time for their feeding but we found that they were hanging out close to their feeding areas. You must have a Guide and your Tip to them is up to you. The tour is about 1-1/2 hours. Our guide was Princsa and she was very knowledgeable about Lemurs and the environment. She has been working there for about 9 years and is working on her University degree in Social Communication and Environmental Management and planning on getting her Master's. She spoke very good English. There is also a small restaurant on site which was good and the tables sit outside overlooking the countryside. Prices are reasonable. 22 to 35 Ariary for lunch and drinks 5 to 10 Ariary. There is also a small souvenir store.