位于加纳首都阿克拉东部约 8 公里的拉巴迪海滩(Labadi Beach),在当地更正式的称呼是拉普莱舍海滩(La Pleasure Beach)。这里是几内亚湾沿岸最繁忙的公共海滩,也是感受加纳当代城市脉搏的最佳观测点。如果你想看静谧的无人海景,这里显然不是首选;但如果你想看加纳人如何狂欢、如何跳舞以及如何在沙滩上谈生意,这里就是唯一的答案。从科托卡国际机场(Kotoka International Airport)驱车出发,大约 20 分钟就能抵达这片充满活力的金色沙岸。
去拉巴迪海滩不需要提前预约,直接打车或者坐当地的小巴车(Tro-tro)到 La 这一站就能下车。这里的门票价格并不固定,通常工作日和周末有区别。普通日子大约 20 塞地(GHS),到了周五晚上的派对高峰或节假日,价格可能会涨到 30 甚至 50 塞地。进门时记得收好票根,偶尔会有安保人员在沙滩巡查。如果你是住在旁边的拉巴迪海滩酒店(Labadi Beach Hotel)或拉帕姆皇家度假村,则可以从专属通道免费进入酒店私有区域。
在阿克拉出行,Uber 和 Bolt 是最稳妥的选择,从奥苏(Osu)闹市区打车过来也就 20 到 30 塞地左右。如果你想体验接地气的当地生活,可以去恩克鲁玛圆环(Nkrumah Circle)搭乘线路号为 424 或 469 的小巴。这些车通常只要几块塞地,但你得忍受没有空调且人挤人的环境。考虑到海边的日晒,建议还是打车直接停在海滩入口,省下体力去沙滩上走那 3 公里长的海岸线。
进了大门并不意味着一切免费。想在沙滩遮阳伞下坐一会儿,租椅子的费用通常在 10 到 20 塞地之间。这里的商贩嗅觉极其灵敏,如果你不打算消费,最好礼貌且坚定地拒绝。另外,由于这里是公共区域,上厕所通常需要额外支付 1 到 2 塞地的清洁费。虽然不多,但兜里备点零钱能省去不少尴尬。
拉巴迪海滩的魅力在于它的不确定性。清晨六点,你会看到成群的年轻人在这里跑步、做俯卧撑或者打沙滩排球,那是阿克拉最具生命力的时刻。到了午后,这里就变成了巨大的露天市场和派对现场。这里的沙子质地很细,适合光脚漫步,但正午时分沙子烫得惊人,一定要穿拖鞋。
骑马是拉巴迪的招牌项目。虽然海滩上有专业的马术俱乐部提供固定价格的服务,但大多数人遇到的是牵着马揽客的散户。这些马个头不算大,但拍照确实很出片。一定要提前谈好价格,对方开价 150 塞地纯属试探,砍到 60 到 80 塞地骑个十分钟是比较公平的行情。骑行时建议让牵马人慢一点,几内亚湾的海浪有时会突然打过来,容易惊到马匹。
空气中常年弥漫着木炭和香料的味道,那是沿岸摊位在烤罗非鱼(Tilapia)和烤肉串(Kebab)。一份地道的烤鱼配上发酵玉米团(Banku)大约需要 60 到 100 塞地。说实话,这里的卫生条件比较粗放,肠胃脆弱的游客建议去稍微正式一点的餐饮区,比如附近的 Tawala 海滨餐厅。如果不饿,买个 10 塞地的现剖椰子,坐在岸边吹吹海风,性价比极高。
如果你问当地人什么时候去最合适,他们一定会说周五晚上。夕阳西下后,巨大的音响阵列会被搬出来,雷鬼(Reggae)、高生活音乐(Hiplife)和非洲节拍(Afrobeats)响彻天际。现场会有极其精彩的文化鼓乐和杂技表演,甚至还会有篝火晚会。这种热闹会一直持续到深夜,是阿克拉夜生活的缩影。不过,此时的人流量巨大,一定要看管好自己的随身财物。
拉巴迪海滩虽然名气大,但并非完美。作为一名务实的旅行者,有些细节你必须提前知道。这里不是那种能让你静下心来读一本书的地方,如果你追求的是极致的静谧和私密,那可能更适合去西边 25 公里的科克罗比特(Kokrobite)。
这是一条很严肃的建议:不建议在拉巴迪海滩进行深水游泳。根据世界卫生组织(WHO)及相关机构过往的监测数据,由于城市排污口距离较近,这里海水的总大肠杆菌群经常超标。此外,大西洋的离岸流(Rip Currents)非常强劲,海浪拍打力度极大,每年都有游客因为低估了浪涌的危险而发生意外。在岸边踩踩水没问题,但真的想游泳,还是去酒店的露天泳池更安全。
由于游客密度极高,海滩上偶尔能看到散落的塑料瓶和杂物。虽然有酒店和相关机构负责清理,但整体环境只能说一般。另外,这里的小商贩非常有毅力,他们会向你推销编织手链、木雕甚至画作。如果你不需要,不用感到不好意思,直接微笑着摇头走开即可。在这里,学会如何体面地拒绝也是旅行体验的一部分。
想看派对和演出就选周五晚上或周末,想安静晒太阳建议周二到周四的中午。每天下午 4 点以后天气转凉,是海滩漫步和骑马最舒适的时段。
普通访客的入场费通常在 20 到 50 塞地之间,具体取决于当天是否有特殊活动。住在海滩边的高档酒店可以免费从私有区域进出。
沙滩散户的开价通常波动很大,10 到 15 分钟的体验建议成交价在 60 到 80 塞地左右。如果有专门的马术俱乐部引导,价格通常固定在 150 塞地以上。
街头摊位的烤鱼和烤肉口感地道但卫生条件参差不齐,肠胃敏感者慎选。建议去带座位的海滨餐厅点餐,一份主食加饮料的开销约在 80 到 150 塞地。
考虑到大西洋强劲的暗流以及由于城市径流导致的水质细菌超标问题,不建议在此进行深水游泳。在浅滩处踩水观浪是更稳妥的选择。
距离海滩约 20 分钟车程即可到达奥苏城堡(Osu Castle)和詹姆斯敦(Jamestown)老城区。如果你对加纳历史感兴趣,那里比海滩更有深度。
eunice thompson Loved the water and enjoyed riding on the horse but I was a bit disappointed with the crowdiness and the dirtiness of the beach. Paid 20cedis to access the beach and immediately had 3 people following me about to get a seat. Not a very pleasant experience.
Ncamiso Nkambule Beautiful area and fresh breeze but I was disappointed that who ever is running the place doesn't take much care of it in terms of cleaning and ensuring that it is well maintained, more so because there is an entry fee collected at the gate. Some parts did not feel safe because every vendor was trying to sell you something
Samuel Owusu Bempah It is a fun place to be both during the day and at night. There are numerous pubs operating in there. You are allowed to come in with your good and drinks, but you would still have to get a few things from there
Pitiphon Promduangsi The worst customer service ever! During the breakfast time (crowded time), I’ve already had the table which no one take it then somebody told me that ‘this is their own table.’ I told the staff I’m good to move but can you please find me the new table? … She said if you see your friend you can sit with them and I answered that I don’t see my friends… she even didn’t help me find the new one. At the end of the day, I asked them to help move my dishes when I found the new table and there’s no one helping me. Such a bad service
Angela Taylor We had a pleasant visit to Labadia Beach, though it was very crowded while we were there (Sunday afternoon). There are plenty of restaurants to choose from that offer tables and umbrellas to sit under while you eat / drink, as well as beach activities you can pay for (horseback riding, ATV rides). There are some pretty picturesque places on the beach, but you have to get away from the crowds and trash to find them. This is the dirtiest beach I've ever been to (trash is everywhere, including in the waves). There were people swimming in the water, but I didn't feel comfortable getting in the water, as you'll be swimming with a lot of debris. In the midst of all the crowds are a lot of merchants selling various trinkets. I found these merchants much less aggressive than the ones on Oxford Street, as when you say "no thank you," they nod and walk away instead of asking repeatedly. For those who want a quieter experience, you can walk all the way down to the other end of the beach where you'll find some flat rocks to sit on. I'll call this place "Lovers Cove" as it only had a handful of couples sitting quietly enjoying the waves hitting the rocks. Very peaceful. Overall, I recommend visiting, even if just for the experience, but expect a crowd on the weekend, lots of merchants, and quite a bit of trash. If you look past all of that, you can have a pleasant time.