吉马(Jimma)的阿巴·吉法尔宫(Aba Jifar Palace)坐落在海拔约 1780 米的吉伦山上,距离吉马市中心大约 7 公里。这座建于 1880 年前后的古老建筑不仅是昔日吉马王国的权力象征,更是埃塞俄比亚西南部保存最完整的王室宫殿遗址。现在去参观,外国游客的成人门票通常在 100 到 200 比尔之间,建议出发前咨询当地向导确认最新变动。
提到这座宫殿就不得不提阿巴·吉法尔二世(Aba Jifar II),他在 1878 年至 1932 年间统治吉马王国长达 54 年。这位国王在位期间,吉马是著名的咖啡交易中心。宫殿选址在吉伦山顶是有讲究的,这里视野极佳,可以俯瞰整个吉马盆地,在冷兵器时代具有极高的防御价值。虽然吉马王国后来并入了现代埃塞俄比亚版图,但这座宫殿依然保留了那个时代的威严。步入宫廷区域,你能感受到一种不同于北方阿克苏姆或贡德尔的独特氛围,那是属于奥罗莫文明与伊斯兰文化交织的产物。
阿巴·吉法尔宫最让人称奇的是它的混血感。虽然主要建材取自当地的木材、石块和石灰,但其设计却邀请了印度和欧洲的工匠参与。宫殿内部划分为超过 40 个房间,包括国王的私人居所、王后的寝宫以及用于接待外宾的议事厅。说真的,当你看到那些细腻的木雕窗棂和具有印度风格的立柱时,很难想象在 140 多年前的埃塞俄比亚深山里,就已经有了这种全球化审美的碰撞。宫殿里甚至还保留着当年的秘密地道和储藏室,专门用来存放象牙和金币。
从首都亚的斯亚贝巴(Addis Ababa)前往吉马主要有两种选择。如果时间充裕且想看沿途风景,可以乘坐长途大巴,行程大约 350 公里,由于路况复杂,通常需要耗费 7 到 8 个小时。不过,大多数旅行者会选择搭乘埃塞俄比亚航空的国内航班,航程不到 1 小时就能降落在吉马机场。到了机场后,打个突突车(当地叫 Bajaj)或者包一辆蓝色的老式拉达出租车,谈好价格就能直奔吉伦山。去宫殿的那段山路有点颠,建议早起出发,清晨的山顶雾气蒙蒙,拍照最有感觉。
参观完宫殿本体后,别急着下山。宫殿旁边还有一座较小的清真寺,同样充满了历史厚重感。吉马这一带是世界咖啡的发源地之一,山下的吉马博物馆也值得顺道一去,那里收藏了更多关于吉马王国的文物。至于穿衣,吉马的气候比首都湿润且温暖,但吉伦山上海风较大,建议带一件薄外套。如果你是 6 月到 8 月的雨季过来,那路就更难走了,泥泞的红土地可能会让你的鞋子面目全非,所以旱季才是最佳游览窗口。
阿巴·吉法尔宫位于吉马市东北部约 7 公里的吉伦山上。最便捷的方式是从吉马市区租一辆 4x4 越野车或乘坐当地的突突车,车费大约在 150 到 200 比尔之间,单程耗时约 20 分钟。
目前针对外国游客的门票大约是 100 到 200 比尔,持有居住证的外国人或当地人会有减免。由于埃塞俄比亚通货膨胀较快,价格可能随时上调,建议兜里多准备些小额面值的比尔现金。
如果只是走马观花,40 分钟就能转完,但算上听讲解和在山顶拍照,建议预留 1.5 到 2 小时。宫殿共有 40 多个房间,有些角落比较昏暗,慢走细看才能发现木雕纹路里的细节。
官方并没有强制要求,但在入口处通常会有当地向导主动提供服务。付个 300 到 500 比尔请他们讲讲历史还是挺划算的,否则你面对的只是一堆空荡荡的木石房子,很难理解每个房间背后的故事。
Fitsum Teklu Was lucky to see the Aba Jifar Museum as it is undergoing some impressive conservation and rehabilitation. We were welcomed by a tour guide who was knowledgable and had some fun stories to tell about the late Aba Jifar.
Sumantra Misra This place has been under renovation / restoration since ages. Can't quite understand how it can take so long to conserve, given the fact that the actual size of the palace is not too large really
Ayele Bedada In addition to it's historical significance, the preservation of this place can secure the aspiration of future timber architecture and construction in the country.
Yeneneh Seay I highly recommend visiting The Castle of Abbaa jifaar! overlooking the city of Jima. You cannot go without visiting this historic place.
Leul Habte Based on the history I heard there Abba Jiffar Abba Gomol ruled over The Shenen-Gibe (The five gibes- Guma, Limu-Ennarea, Gera, Goma and Jimma) from His superflous palace on the mount of Jiren. An estimated 3000 lived around the palace specializing in various craftsmanship. Huge in size (2.1 meters and weighing 150kg), Abba Jiffar kept a very positive relationship with the then King of Ethiopia Menilik II which is evident in the various letters they exchanged. Built over a course of 6 years and 143 years ago the design of the palace is articulate and built by an Indian, corrugated Iron said to have been imported from the UK. It's a fascinating place housing, bedrooms, prayer rooms, dining room, a royal office, and small arena (yes, Arena😉 where gladiators used to fight). I have to confess it was not the best of times to visit the Abba Jiffar Palace by the time I visited (July) and was raining a lot which did not allow us to have the famous panoramic view of Jimma City. The Palace was also under an overdue renovation and it's most parts were not accessible for visitors. It is a must visit for anyone who happens to visit Jimma.