去埃及旅行,开罗解放广场(El-Tahrir Square)是无论如何都绕不开的地方。这里不仅是开罗的城市地理中枢,更是埃及近现代史的微缩景观。对于大多数旅行者来说,这里不仅是通往埃及博物馆旧馆的门户,更是感受开罗那份疯狂又迷人的“混沌感”的最佳观察点。广场占地大约 4.5 万平方米,呈巨大的环形布局,连接着城市几条最繁忙的大动脉。
现在的解放广场早已不是十年前那种荒芜的草坪模样。2020 年埃及政府对这里进行了大规模翻修,把曾经用于政治集会的空地变成了露天博物馆。走在广场上,最直观的感受就是历史与现代在这片环形车流中强行拼贴在一起。
这片空地最初建立于 1867 年,当时被称为伊斯梅利亚广场。那时候的统治者赫迪夫·伊斯梅尔想把开罗打造成“尼罗河上的巴黎”,所以你会发现广场周边的老建筑有着浓郁的欧洲装饰艺术风格。到了 1953 年,随着埃及共和国的建立,这里正式更名为“解放广场”,象征着脱离殖民统治的独立精神。直到今天,每当埃及有大事发生,这里依然是全世界镜头的焦点。
广场正中央矗立着一座高约 19 米、重达 100 吨的红色花岗岩方尖碑。这可不是仿制品,而是货真价实的拉美西斯二世遗迹,2020 年才从塔尼斯考古遗址迁至此处。环绕方尖碑的是四座带公羊头的狮身人面像,它们来自卢克索的卡纳克神庙。这种把神庙遗迹直接摆在闹市车流中心的做法,大概也只有在埃及才能见到。夜晚灯光亮起时,古老的象形文字在现代路灯下若隐若现,视觉冲击力极强。
解放广场就像一个巨大的圆盘,每个出口都通往不同的故事。如果你只有半天时间,绕着广场走一圈就能把开罗的精华看个大概。
位于广场北侧的那座醒目的粉红色哥特式建筑,就是著名的埃及博物馆旧馆。虽然大埃及博物馆(GEM)已经分流了大量珍宝,但这座百年老馆的地位依然无可替代。馆内收藏了超过 12 万件文物,那种木质展柜散发出的陈旧气息,本身就是一种历史体验。即使图坦卡蒙的金面具未来可能完全搬离,这里依旧保留着大量石棺、纸莎草纸和震撼人心的法老巨像。
广场下方就是开罗最核心的地铁站——萨达特站(Sadat Station)。这里是开罗地铁 1 号线和 2 号线的换乘站,每天有数以万计的人潮在此涌动。在开罗,坐地铁是避开地面恐怖交通的最快方式。地铁票价根据站点数量不同,通常在 5 到 15 埃镑之间。出了站,你就能看到卖烤红薯的小贩和兜售埃及国旗的商铺,这才是最真实、最有烟火气的开罗日常。
在解放广场活动,体力不是问题,胆量才是。这里没有所谓的“淡旺季”,车流永远像潮水一样不知疲倦。
说真的,在解放广场过马路是一门艺术。这里的红绿灯往往只是摆设,车流几乎不停歇。不要期待司机主动让路,最有效的办法是紧跟在当地人身后。只要他们迈步,你就贴身跟着。开罗司机有一种神奇的默契,只要你步频稳健,他们总能在离你几厘米的地方精准刹车或绕行。千万不要在马路中间突然停下或往回跑,那才是最危险的行为。
广场周边常会有一些英语极好的当地人主动搭讪。他们通常会告诉你“博物馆今天关门了”或者“我知道一个秘密的观景露台”,然后热情地带你去某个香精店或纸莎草画店。遇到这种人,礼貌地微笑说声“La Shukran”(阿拉伯语的不用了,谢谢)然后继续走就行。记住,解放广场是全天开放的,博物馆的开放时间通常到下午四五点,不要轻信路人的所谓“内部消息”。
解放广场是一个开放式的公共城市空间,完全免费,无需任何门票。不过,广场周边的埃及博物馆旧馆是需要买票进入的,2024 年成人票价大约为 450 埃镑左右,建议提前准备好信用卡支付。
我个人强烈建议傍晚 6 点以后再去。此时广场中心会开启景观灯,方尖碑和公羊狮身像在夜色中非常有质感。而且避开了开罗白天燥热的太阳,广场周边的咖啡馆也开始热闹起来,非常适合坐下来观察路人。
步行约 10 分钟就能到达著名的 Koshary Abou Tarek。这是一家经营埃及国民美食 Koshary 的百年老店,一碗由米饭、通心粉、扁豆和特制酱料混合而成的平民美食只要几十埃镑,分量扎实且口感层次丰富。
绝对不行。埃及对无人机的管控严苛到极点,在解放广场这种敏感区域起飞,几乎百分之百会被没收设备甚至面临法律处罚。普通手机或相机拍摄方尖碑是没问题的,但注意避开周边的警察岗哨和政府大楼,以免引起不必要的麻烦。
最推荐的方式是打车(使用 Uber 或 Careem),车程约 30-40 分钟,费用大约 100 到 150 埃镑。如果不怕折腾,也可以坐小巴到吉萨地铁站,换乘 2 号线直接在萨达特站(Sadat)下车即可。
V. Simone The hotel is located near el-Tahrir square. We had a large, clean, cozy room (this is not a given in Cairo, hotels are often dirty and uncomfortable). The room also had a balcony, I liked watching the busy streets of Cairo from there. Inside, however, there is a calm and very friendly atmosphere, we felt very comfortable here, everyone is nice and helpful 😊❤️ . The hotel is safe and a place where you come to really relax. Not all hotels there can offer such a calm, pleasant and friendly atmosphere. We were really happy there and we will remember this pleasant hotel ❤️and we will definitely come back when we travel to Cairo again. We loved it there, especially my six year old son loved it here ❤️. And the people who work here and manage the hotel have become our dear friends we will want to meet again ❤️. We hope to come back here again 🥰.
sami gh Tahrir square is the most famous square in cairo , was named after independance day in 1919 , as tahrir means liberation . And witnessed renaming few times but still keeping its original name til today . It comes in 3rd place as importance after Ramses and Ataba square where bus and stations location . Nearby is nile river just 5 min walk , national museum 5 min walk , hilton hotel , metro Al sadat and others . Most of the time is crowded , mainly in rush hour of afternoon .
Abdulla Mohammed Tahrir Square in Cairo holds immense historical significance as a focal point for social and movements in Egypt. Tahrir Square in Cairo is not only a historic site but also a vibrant cultural hub teeming with life and energy. From the bustling street vendors selling traditional delicacies to the captivating street performers showcasing their talents, the square offers a sensory feast for visitors. Families gather for picnics, couples stroll hand in hand, and children play amidst the backdrop of iconic landmarks like the Egyptian Museum and the Nile River. Tahrir Square embodies the pulse of Cairo, where the past seamlessly blends with the present, creating an unforgettable experience for locals and tourists alike.
John Yong The square is the focus of all branches of business and to the major tourist spots, a walkable distance to the museum. The atmosphere is bustling and hustling and most squares are in the mode a roundabout and be watchful if you try to cross as a pedestrian.
Xiao Zhuo Wen The Egyptian Museum, also known as the Egyptian National Museum, is an ancient Egyptian history museum located in Cairo, the capital of Egypt. It houses a collection of 120,000 ancient Egyptian antiquities, the most representative of which are on display in the museum building, while the rest are in storage rooms. The building was built in 1901 by the Italian architectural firm Garozzo-Zaffarani and designed by French architect Marcel Dorgron, becoming one of the largest museums in Egypt.