很多人去开罗旅行只盯着塔利尔广场的老博物馆,其实位于福斯塔特旧城的埃及文明国家博物馆(National Museum of Egyptian Civilization,简称 NMEC)才是现在看皇室木乃伊的唯一去处。2021 年那场轰动全球的法老黄金游行,把 22 具沉睡千年的木乃伊从老馆护送到这里,自此这里就成了埃及文旅的新地标。比起老馆那种充满胶片感的拥挤堆砌,这里更像是一座现代化、有呼吸感的历史殿堂。整座博物馆占地约 13.5 万平方米,紧邻艾因西拉湖,视野开阔得让人心情大好。
到了 NMEC 如果不去地下的皇家木乃伊展厅,那这趟行程起码丢了八成灵魂。这里安放着 18 位国王和 4 位女王,包括大名鼎鼎的拉美西斯二世(Ramesses II)和哈特谢普苏特女王(Hatshepsut)。展厅设计得非常考究,昏暗的灯光营造出一种肃穆的墓葬氛围,空气温度和湿度被精确控制在最适合文物保存的状态。在这里参观你会发现,相比于其他展区的喧闹,这里安静得能听到自己的呼吸。这种近距离凝视三千多年前统治者真容的体验,确实会让人产生一种穿越时空的恍惚感。有一点得记清楚,木乃伊展厅内部严禁任何形式的摄影,连手机拍照都不行,保安盯着呢,大家还是把震撼留在心里比较好。
虽然木乃伊是重头戏,但主展厅的内容同样扎实。这里的陈列逻辑不是乱糟糟的堆叠,而是按照史前、法老王朝、科普特、伊斯兰以及近现代的脉络有序排开。你能看到五千年前的化妆板,也能看到工艺精湛的伊斯兰时期木雕,甚至还有埃及近代的生活用品。这种横跨数千年的文明展示,让人能看清埃及是怎么从古老文明一步步演变成今天这个样子的。馆内陈列了大约 5 万件文物,虽然目前展出的只是其中一部分,但每一件的标签说明都很清晰。相比老馆那些手写的、甚至快褪色的标签,这里的中文导览和英文介绍明显更利于普通游客理解。
钱的问题咱得算清楚。目前的政策是,外国成人游客门票为 500 埃镑,学生凭证件可以享受半价 250 埃镑。埃及现在的通货膨胀和政策变动比较快,票价偶尔会上调,建议出发前去官网或者官方社交平台扫一眼最新的价格。买票基本都得刷卡,埃及现在的景点售票处普及了电子支付,现金反而不好使。进馆后的安检比较严格,尽量别带太大的双肩包,不然存包也要排队。如果你想拍主展厅(非木乃伊区)的照片,普通的手机拍摄是免费的,但如果要用专业相机或者三脚架,那是另外的价格,得在售票处提前买好摄影票。
说实话,福斯塔特这片区域的公共交通对外国游客并不友好。如果你想坐地铁再步行,那不仅要面对混乱的街区,还得忍受烈日下的长距离跋涉。最稳妥、最省力的办法就是打 Uber。从开罗市中心的塔利尔广场打车过来,不堵车的情况下大概 20 分钟就能到,车费也就几十块人民币。一定要定位到博物馆的正门口,别被定位带到了后方的行政区。参观完想回去时,直接在门口叫车就行,这边 Uber 响应速度很快,没必要搭理门口那些漫天要价的出租车司机。
进馆之后不要急着往下冲,先在大厅看一圈。主展厅是一个巨大的圆形结构,顺时针走就能大致看完埃及的历史演进。中间有些互动多媒体屏幕,做得还算用心。等主展厅看累了,再去负一层的木乃伊展厅,因为那里是室内,冷气开得特别足,正好可以避开下午最热的时候。整个馆逛下来大概需要 2 到 3 个小时。如果你对医学或者古代工艺感兴趣,主展厅里有个关于古代外科手术器材和假肢的展位,那是真能让人看呆,几千年前的假脚趾居然做得跟现代人体工程学差不多。
逛完展厅别急着走,博物馆外面那个艾因西拉湖(Ayn As-Sira Lake)其实挺出片。馆方在湖边修了整齐的步道,你可以坐在湖边的长椅上吹吹风,看一看远处的开罗老城天际线。馆内有几个小咖啡厅,水和零食的价格比外面超市贵不少,但还在能接受的范围内。如果肚子饿了,建议打车去附近的玛尼亚尔宫或者回到市中心再吃饭,博物馆周边的餐厅选择不多,且质量参差不齐。清晨或者傍晚是来这里最好的时间,光线柔和,拍博物馆的外观建筑非常有几何美感。
老馆位于市中心,文物密度极高,主打的是图坦卡蒙的黄金面具和海量石棺,但环境比较局促。NMEC 位于福斯塔特,环境现代化,是现在唯一能看到皇家木乃伊的地方,参观体验更加从容舒适。如果你时间紧,想看最精华的木乃伊,直接选 NMEC 准没错。
主展厅允许手机拍照,但使用单反相机需要购买摄影许可,价格通常和门票差不多。木乃伊展厅则是绝对的禁区,严禁任何形式的拍摄。馆内安保人员很多,一旦被发现违规拍摄可能会被要求删除照片甚至被请出展厅,建议大家遵守规则。
对于普通游客来说,预留 2.5 小时到 3 小时比较合适。其中 1 小时留给主展厅,1 小时仔细看木乃伊,剩下时间用来休息或者在湖边拍照。如果你是深度考古爱好者,这里待上一整天也不会觉得腻,因为细节信息量确实很大。
博物馆就在福斯塔特遗址附近,距离著名的悬空教堂、圣玛丽教堂所在的基督教区(Coptic Cairo)非常近。打车过去不到 10 分钟。建议把这两个地方排在同一天,上午逛教堂区,下午来博物馆吹空调看木乃伊,行程非常顺手。
Ibrahim Moussa A place that will walk you through the history of the beloved Egypt. From the ancient to the modern times. It touches on all the Civilizations that Egypt was through in different ears and times. It's like a time travel tunnel that will take you through a rich historical journey through the time. Most wonderful part is the Royal Mummies walkthrough area, you'll get amazed by those deceased yet mummified Kings and Queens. The place is amazing, accessible, not crowded, organized and reflects our rich history. Worth visiting.
Pamela Alexander Most Awesome. It was unbelievable. Very modern and extremely beautiful museum. It is one of Cario's newest. The highlight of this museum is the 24 mummies on the lower level. I guarantee you have never seen anything like it. Something I will always cherish. The mummy room has information about it each mummy as you follow a guided path to view each chamber ( room) it is not necessary to have a guide. You can read about the different Kings and Queen from the articles on the walls or purchase a headphone narration. The upper floor has the traditional museum type artifacts. It is very nicely designed in one large floor so you don't miss a thing. You can move about easily. There are shops and restaurants in the museum and a view to die for. I highly recommend this museum. Must see. No photos allowed in mummy room.
Samar Yousef I recently visited the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, and it was an incredible experience! The museum beautifully showcases Egypt's rich history and diverse cultures through its impressive exhibits. The layout is well-organized, making it easy to explore. A must-visit for anyone interested in Egypt's heritage
Ammar Alomari The best experience. Amazing place.. amazing employees. No hustling. Nothing shady. All legal and by the law. Perfect for a family visit..my daughter enjoyed it a lot. Wish the rest of the amazing historical sites in Egypt followed these rules. Hats off to the Egyptians government for making such a monumental achievement.
Kyle McCarthy This stunning museum is a testament to the creativity and focus of Egypt and its people. A mere 1,500 objects are so well labeled and displayed that they tell the rich story of one of the most ancient of civilizations. The special Kemet kids play area requires separate admission but do check out their crafts programs and movies if you are with kids. All ages will love the airy space, shops, cafe and air-conditioning too! Don't miss the Mummy chambers which will awe anyone who has toured the country's major sites and seen the monuments and tombs created by these late rulers. Great experience. Allow at least 2 hours if you are not with a guide.