卡拉法门- 景点攻略
The door of the alqarafa
历史文化
埃及
5 评论
建议游玩时长: 2 小时

开罗卡拉法门漫步指南:穿过死人城入口探寻埃及活着的历史

卡拉法门(Bab al-Qarafa)位于开罗萨拉丁城堡的南侧,是通往世界上最古老且依然在使用的墓地群——卡拉法公墓(Al-Qarafa)的重要节点。这道门的历史可以追溯到法蒂玛王朝时期,是开罗老城防御体系的一部分,也是连接开罗中心城区与这片被称为死人城的神秘区域的咽喉。1979年,这片区域作为历史城区的重要组成部分被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。对于想深入了解开罗社会底层纹理和建筑演变的旅行者来说,卡拉法门不是一个单纯的拍照点,而是一个切入点,带你走进那个跨越千年的生死共存空间。

认识卡拉法门:老城墙外的生死边界

藏在尘埃里的法蒂玛王朝记忆

卡拉法门原本是开罗南部城墙的一部分,虽然现在的建筑样貌在马穆鲁克时期和奥斯曼时期经过多次修葺,但其选址和功能性依然保留了中世纪的轮廓。这里不仅是一道城门,更是进入长达 12 公里的狭长墓葬区的起点。说真的,当你站在萨拉丁城堡的高处往下看,卡拉法门就像是一个不起眼的缝隙,但一旦走近,那种由石灰岩堆砌而成的厚重感会瞬间让你冷静下来。根据历史记载,这片区域的开发最早可以追溯到公元 7 世纪,而现在的石质门廊结构则反映了 11 世纪后期到 15 世纪之间的建筑风格叠加。

为什么这道门值得专程跑一趟

很多人只会在萨拉丁城堡或者苏丹哈桑清真寺远远眺望死人城,却很少有人真正走到卡拉法门脚下。这道门的独特性在于它的过渡感。门的一侧是车水马龙的现代开罗街道,而穿过门洞,景色会迅速切换为密集的墓室建筑和零星的低层民居。这里没有开罗市中心的喧嚣,取而代之的是一种沉寂的烟火气。门廊周边的墙体上还能看到一些剥落的铭文残迹,它们记录了曾经的统治者对这片安息之地的保护。如果你对伊斯兰建筑中的几何纹样和门洞形制感兴趣,这里的构造比那些翻新过的景点更有原生态的质感。

徒步路线与看点:从卡拉法门出发能看到什么

壮丽的马穆鲁克式圆顶建筑群

从卡拉法门向南深入,最先映入眼帘的就是那些高低错落的石质圆顶。这里的墓葬建筑群规模极其宏大,总面积超过 10 平方公里。这其中的佼佼者是伊玛目沙斐仪清真寺,其巨大的圆顶是该地区的视觉中心。钱的问题也得算清楚,参观这些清真寺和陵墓大多年份很久,虽然大多数不需要专门购买昂贵的套票,但进入一些特定的修缮区域可能需要支付大约 20 到 40 埃镑的小费或门票钱。这些圆顶不仅仅是艺术品,它们内部的声学设计和精美的大理石拼花在下午三点钟的阳光直射下显得尤为震撼。

活着的公墓与独特的社区生活

这点很多人不知道,卡拉法门内部并不是一片荒凉的废墟,而是居住着大约 50 万到 100 万人。这种活人与逝者共存的奇观在全世界都很难找到第二个案例。清晨六点半出发时,你会看到小摊贩在古老的石墓旁卖蚕豆饭,孩子们在刻有精美阿拉伯书法纹样的石碑间追逐打闹。这里的生活气息是真实的,甚至带有一点点压抑的活力。游览时需要注意,尽量避免对着当地人的窗户或墓室门口猛拍,保持基本的尊重是体验这里的前提。你会发现这里的居民其实很习惯外来游客,偶尔还会有人用简单的英语指引你前往最壮观的那些陵墓遗址。

避坑建议:如何安全且体面地游览

最佳游览时间与着装要求

前往卡拉法门及其周边区域,最佳的时间段是上午 10 点到下午 4 点之间。这段时间阳光充足,光影投射在古墙和圆顶上的效果最好,且周围人流相对适中。考虑到这片区域的宗教属性和文化敏感性,建议穿着覆盖肩膀和膝盖的服装。虽然开罗街头现在的穿着越来越开放,但在死人城核心区,保守一点的装束会让你减少许多不必要的注视。到了之后先去售票处询问,虽然卡拉法门本身是公共空间,但偶尔会有临时性的修缮封路,建议提前查阅最新的古迹管理信息。

交通接驳与周边地标对照

如果你从开罗市中心打车,定位直接设为萨拉丁城堡南侧的 Bab al-Qarafa 即可,车费通常在 50 埃镑以内。建议游览完城堡后顺着山坡步行下来,大约 15 分钟就能到达城门。路况比较复杂,尘土也多,穿一双防滑耐脏的鞋子是必须的。走累了的话,门洞附近偶尔有几家卖薄荷茶的小店,你可以花 10 埃镑买一杯茶坐下来,观察那些穿过城门的古老驴车和现代摩托车如何共存,那种穿越感绝对是这趟行程中最深刻的部分。

常见问题

进入卡拉法门所在的死人城区域需要购买门票吗

卡拉法门本身是一个公共通行的城门,不收取任何门票费用。但是区域内的一些著名古迹如伊玛目沙斐仪清真寺或其他被修缮保护的陵墓,通常需要支付 20 至 80 埃镑不等的参观费用。建议随身携带适量的小面额埃镑现金,因为这里几乎无法使用信用卡支付。

在卡拉法门和墓地区摄影有什么特殊限制吗

拍摄古建筑和远景通常是被允许的,但严禁拍摄军事设施或穿着制服的安保人员。由于这里也是居民区,拍摄当地人特别是女性和儿童前务必先获得同意,并且绝对不要进入私人居住的墓室内部拍照。在某些特定受限区域,安保人员可能会要求你支付少许拍摄许可费或干脆禁止摄影。

独自一人前往卡拉法门游玩安全吗

白天的卡拉法门周边人流较多,安全性是有保障的。不过由于这里的路网极其复杂且巷道狭窄,建议尽量在日落前离开该区域。如果是女性单独前往,选择穿着低调一些并避免在过于偏僻的小道停留太久,或者直接在城堡出口附近找一个当地向导陪同半天,费用大约在 200 到 300 埃镑左右。

卡拉法门附近有推荐的餐饮点吗

城门直接周边以当地简陋的小吃摊为主,卫生条件对于肠胃较弱的游客来说可能是个挑战。建议步行返回萨拉丁城堡周边,那里有几家可以俯瞰开罗老城的景观餐厅。如果你想体验地道小吃,离门步行约 10 分钟的地方有售卖库沙利(Koshary)的老店,价格便宜且翻台率高,相对卫生可靠。

卡拉法门 用户评价

  • attractions-reviews-avatar Samir Ibrahim
    5
    评论于 2022-04-05

    195: Bab Al-Qarafa, Salah Salem Street, Al-Sayyida Aisha Impact number: 618 the site : It is currently located on Salah Salem Street, to the right of Bab Qaitbay, in Sayyida Aisha, in the Caliph section. Al-Bab belongs to the antiquities area east of Cairo Creator: Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi Date created : 572 AH (1176 AD) Door date: Bab al-Qarafa in Sayyida Aisha Square, “Monument No. 618”... Bab al-Qarafa is one of the outer gates of the old city of Cairo in its southern wall extending from the citadel to Fustat. It and the wall were built by Sultan al-Nasir Saladin Yusuf bin Ayyub at the hands of his minister, Bahaa al-Din Qaraqosh, in the year 572 AH / 1176 AD. To surround the four Islamic capitals of Egypt: Fustat, Al-Askar, Al-Qata’i and Cairo with a single wall in order to protect the country from Crusaders’ attacks. The Qarafa Gate was the main entrance for the people of Cairo to begin their visit to the Qarafa, individually and in groups. When it was Wednesday, the nineteenth of Dhul-Qa’dah in the year 845 AH - and the hadith of Al-Sakhawi in Tuhfat Al-Ahbab and Baghiyat Al-Talib - Sultan King Al-Zahir Abu Said Jaqmaq came down from the mountain castle to the Qarafa, looked at the Qarafa and disgraced it by pouring dirt on it until It became a heap and was trampled by passers-by, so he ordered that this door be permanently closed to protect those graves, so this door became open only on the day of the loader’s cycle in Rajab. The Qarafa Gate remained in use until the advent of the French campaign, and due to the French’s control over the city following the Second Cairo Revolution, the opening of the door was closed with construction. Regarding this, Al-Jabarti mentions, in his manifestation of sanctification, the demise of the Franciscan state in the events of the month of Dhu al-Hijjah in the year 1215 AH/1801 AD (in which demolition and devastation continued, the changes of monuments and the diversification of grievances...they demolished the buildings of Bab al-Qarafa, its schools and mosques, and blocked the door). Over time, the Qarafa Gate was neglected, its buildings were demolished, and then houses were built adjacent to it and above it until it completely disappeared under the dust, after which the gate was considered one of the vanished archaeological structures. A century and a half later, in the year 1943 AD, while the late engineer Muhammad Abbas Badr, former director of the Engineering Department at the Islamic Antiquities Authority, was carrying out the restoration process for the Sultan Qaytbay Gate, which is about 30 meters away from the Qarafa Gate, a wall was found adjacent to this door on the northern side, and it contained a slate similar to the slate on the wall. Saladin at the Minister's Gate, Along the first Mazghalah on the southern side of Bab Qaitbay, a second Mazghalah similar to the first was found, which confirmed the presence of part of the Salah al-Din Wall in this area. As the exploration continued at this site, a stone arch appeared, blocked by recent buildings connected to it from above, with the remains of a stone dome resting at one end on some cymbals for a vertical arch on the wall of the wall. After removing the dust and removing the building blocking the arch, which was erected by the French in 1801 AD, “Bab al-Qarafa” appeared, which was distorted by time and many of its archaeological features were lost... 1 Al-Maqrizi continues in the plans that the area confined between the shrine of Imam Al-Shafi’i and the foot of Mount Mokattam did not contain cemeteries until after King Al-Kamil Al-Ayyubid buried his son in the year 580 AH. (1184 AD) next to the shrine of Imam al-Shafi’i. He built the large dome over the shrine, so people moved their buildings from the Greater Qarafa to there and built tombs for themselves in it, known as the Lesser Qarafa. During the era of Al-Nasir Muhammad bin Qalawun, the Mamluk princes built tombs for themselves between the Dome of Imam Al-Shafi’i and Bab Al-Qarafa... until the buildings became connected from Birkat Al-Habash in the south to Bab Al-Qarafa in the north. At the beginning of the fourth century AH, there was an urban neighborhood that derived its name from Bani Qarafa, one of the branches of the Maafer tribe. To this tribe are attributed the collection of Cairo's cemeteries, which became known as Al-Qarafa. As for Bab al-Qarafa, some parts of it still remain, and it is currently located on Salah Salem Street, to the right of Bab Qaitbay, in Sayyida Aisha, in the Caliph section. 2 Architectural description: The vaulted passage is all that remains of the Bab al-Qarafa building; It opens at the height of the Cairo wall. The current gate opening does not include any towers. The corridor is four and a half meters wide. The corridor is covered by a longitudinal, pointed vault, and contains the remains of two spherical triangles. The interior façade is crowned by a pointed arch with a beveled façade. Sources : 1: Al-Sakhawi in Tuhfat Al-Ahbab and Baghiyat Al-Talaba - Al-Jabarti in the Manifestation of Sanctification with the Demise of the Franciscan State - Abu Al-Ala Khalil, Egyptian historian. 2: Al-Maqrizi’s plans, vol. 2, pp. 443 - p. 444. Jomard, François: Description of the City of Cairo, p. 224. - Farouk Askar, Cairo City Guide, Part Two, a research project submitted to the Golden Network website, Abu Dhabi: September 2002, p.

  • attractions-reviews-avatar Yasser Al attar
    5
    评论于 2020-03-15

    It means the door of the cemeteries, the place of which was chosen next to the city of Fustat, the first Islamic capital in Egypt, as a cemetery for Muslims. This area continued as a cemetery for Muslims, but it is also mentioned historically that the Khan al-Khalili area was in the past the cemetery of the Fatimids in Egypt before the Mamluk state came, and it was converted into shops by Prince Khalil al-Sharkisi, of Palestinian origins. .

  • attractions-reviews-avatar Rabab Rezk
    4
    评论于 2020-03-09

    The street leading to Imam Al-Shafi’i is full of treasures of Islamic antiquities with a great history in different periods of Egypt’s rule.

  • attractions-reviews-avatar Mohamed Elafify
    5
    评论于 2020-03-01

    Al-Qarafa (which means cemetery in Egypt) is often referred to today as the area located in the Egyptian capital, Cairo, which extended in area below Mokattam and was inhabited by simple people.[1][2] The cemetery was named “Qarafa” after a tribe of Maghafir called “Bani Qarafa.” There were two graves in Cairo, one of them on the roof of Mokattam and it was called “Al-Qarafa Al-Sughra” and it contained the tomb of Imam Al-Shafi’i, and the other east of Fustat next to the residences was called “Al-Qarafa Al-Kubra”, and it contained the burials of the dead Muslims since the opening of Egypt. The Arabs did not have a cemetery except the one located in the city of Fustat, as Al-Maqrizi mentioned in his plans.

  • attractions-reviews-avatar Tamer Gomaa
    5
    评论于 2019-03-12

    The archaeological researcher, Abu Al-Ala Khalil, who specializes in Islamic antiquities, revealed the story of Bab Al-Qarafa in Sayyida Aisha Square, artifact No. 618. It is one of the gates of the old outer city of Cairo in its southern wall extending from the citadel to Fustat. It and the wall were built by Sultan Al-Nasir Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi at the hands of his minister, Bahaa al-Din Qaraqoush, in the year 572 AH / 1176 AD. He continued: He did this to surround the four Islamic capitals of Egypt, Al-Fustat, Al-Askar, Al-Qata’i, and Cairo, with a single wall in order to protect the country from Crusaders’ attacks. Bab Al-Qarafa was the main entrance for the people of Cairo to begin their visit to Al-Qarafa, individually and in groups. He pointed out that the Parting Gate remained in use until the advent of the French campaign, and to tighten French control over the city after the Second Cairo Revolution, the opening of the door was closed with construction. Over time, the Qarafa Gate was neglected and its buildings were demolished, then houses were built adjacent to it and above it until it completely disappeared under the dust and then returned. The door is one of the vanished archaeological structures. He said: After a century and a half, in the year 1943 AD, while the late engineer Muhammad Abbas Badr, former director of the Engineering Department of the Islamic Antiquities Authority, was carrying out the restoration process for the Sultan Qaytbay Gate, which is about 30 meters away from the Qarafa Gate, a wall was found adjacent to this door from the northern side, and it contained a similar slate. The shrines located in the Salah al-Din Wall in Bab al-Wazir. An extension of the first Mazghalla from the southern side of Bab Qaitbay was also found on a second Mazghalah similar to the first Mazghalla, which confirmed the presence of part of the Salah al-Din Wall in this area. As exploration continued at this site, a blocked stone arch appeared with new buildings connected to it from the top of the remains of a stone dome resting on it. At one end there is some cymbal to hold it vertically on the wall of the fence. He added: After removing the dust and removing the building blocking the arch, which was erected by the French in 1801 AD, “Bab al-Qarafa” appeared, which was distorted by time and many of its archaeological features were lost.

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