维龙加国家公园(Virunga National Park)不仅是刚果民主共和国的瑰宝,更是全非洲历史最悠久的自然保护区。它始建于 1925 年,面积约 7800 平方公里,地跨森林、草原、湿地以及海拔超过 5000 米的雪山。这里最出名的莫过于全世界约三分之一的山地大猩猩,以及曾经拥有巨大熔岩湖的尼拉贡戈火山(Mount Nyiragongo)。虽然东部边境局势时常波动,但对于追求极致荒野体验的旅行者来说,这里依然是无可替代的目的地。
去维龙加旅游不能办理普通的刚果金商务签证,那既贵又慢。公园官方与移民局有一套特殊协议:只要你预订了公园官方的住宿或徒步套餐,就能申请 105 美元的专属旅游签证(Tourism Visa)。这套手续完全在线上完成,通常在支付套餐后的两周内获批。拿到的是一份电子版文件,打印出来带在身上,在戈马(Goma)入境时交给边境官即可。需要注意的是,这份签证通常只有 14 天有效期,且仅限单次入境。
大多数旅行者选择从卢旺达的基加利(Kigali)出发,驱车约 4 小时到达边境城市吉塞尼(Gisenyi)。过境点被称为大屏障(Grande Barriere)。在这里,除了签证,最重要的文件是俗称黄皮书的黄热病疫苗接种证明。如果没有这本小本子,或者接种时间不足 10 天,你大概率会被拦在国境线外。入境处有维龙加公园专属的旅游接待处,工作人员会协助你办理后续的安保车辆对接。
在维龙加追踪大猩猩的成本远低于邻国卢旺达。目前,旺季(12 月至次年 3 月,6 月至 10 月)的许可证价格约为 400 美元,而淡季(3 月中旬至 5 月中旬,10 月中旬至 12 月中旬)则会降到 200 美元。这笔钱包含了专业护林员的引导和武装守卫的保护。考虑到卢旺达同类项目已经涨到 1500 美元,在维龙加看大猩猩算得上性价比极高,虽然这也意味着你需要承担额外的旅行风险。
追踪通常从布基玛(Bukima)巡逻站开始。根据大猩猩群落当天的移动位置,你可能需要步行 1 到 4 小时不等。当你最终看到这些庞然大物时,必须佩戴口罩——这是为了防止人类感冒或病毒传染给这些基因相似度极高的灵长类动物。建议穿着长袖长裤和防滑靴,因为丛林里的刺灌木和行军蚁非常多。别忘了带一双园艺手套,这在攀爬泥泞山坡时能救你的命。每组游客限 8 人,与大猩猩的亲密接触时间严格限制在 1 小时。
海拔 3470 米的尼拉贡戈火山是世界上最活跃的火山之一。2021 年的大喷发导致山顶著名的巨大熔岩湖一度干涸,并给戈马市带来了巨大破坏。虽然目前徒步活动时开时停,但它依然是公园的核心景观。出发前必须查看官方网站(virunga.org)确认当日是否开放。如果能够登顶,你将在山顶的简易小木屋住一晚,亲眼目睹地壳深处的火红岩浆在脚下翻滚。由于局势和地质灾害风险,所有火山徒步必须由持枪护林员全程陪同。
别被 5 小时的登山时长给骗了,这段路几乎全是布满松动浮石的陡坡。从基巴蒂(Kibati)出发点到山顶,气温会从 25 摄氏度骤降至接近零度。说真的,山顶风大到能把帐篷掀翻,清晨六点半出发下山时,冷到必须抱着热水杯取暖。建议在山下花约 25 美元雇一名挑夫,帮你背负睡袋和水,这样能极大提高登顶成功率。
安全是这里最大的变数,由于地区武装冲突,公园曾多次关闭并于 2025 年初仍保持高度戒备。进入公园后,游客会被安排在有武装护卫的车辆中集体行动,住宿点如米科诺营地(Mikeno Lodge)也有严密安保。建议出发前一周通过邮件联系公园旅游办确认当地实时状态,并严格遵循公园的交通接送安排。
除了常规的徒步鞋,务必带上驱蚊效果极强的喷雾(含 DEET 成分)和手电筒,因为营地电力供应受限。建议多备一些 2006 年以后发行的小面额美元现金,用于支付挑夫和向导的小费。此外,准备一套高保暖内衣非常关键,即便在热带,火山顶的夜晚依然寒气逼人。
比较高档的是米科诺营地,它坐落在郁郁葱葱的森林中,有时在房间露台就能看到狒狒。更经济的选择是基布姆巴帐篷营地(Kibumba Tented Camp),它靠近大猩猩追踪起点,虽然设施简易但干净卫生。如果想享受水边的宁静,可以去切盖拉岛(Tchegera Island),那里能远眺冒烟的火山,非常适合结束行程前的放松。大部分营地套餐每晚人均在 100 美元至 450 美元不等。
Kamila Janczyk If you are still wondering whether Virunga in the DRC is the best place to see the mountain gorillas - stop. It is THE place to first meet them. It is THE place where you can meet people who are risking their lifes everyday to make this world a better place, not only for the animals, but also for the local population. Virunga staff has the security under 100% control. Mikeno lodge is first class, Senkwekwe orphanage is now open for visitors again. I would definitely come back.
Cindy Eyer Absolutely Stunning! The lodge with the tent camp is First Class. The food was 5 star!! Sat around the fireplace and watched the monkeys in the trees. We hiked and were so close to the Gorillas. Visited the family with 44 members and were able to see 25... once in a lifetime experience! Highly recommend.
Nokuthula What an overwhelming experience - Virunga is a piece of heaven on earth! This park is rich in natural resources, the people are so warm and friendly. I feel very attached and hopeful about returning soon. It exceeded all my expectations.
Ravi Arya This is a beautiful park located in eastern DRC. For the information of travellers, the park isn’t open due to security concerns. There had been cases of kidnapping for foreign nationals previously in the park. Moreover , you will find only MONUSCO and rangers in the park . Though , wildlife in the park in amazing. We pray that government of DRC take measures to open this park soon for the wildlife lovers. ICCN(rangers) facilitate movement in the park. So one needs to create good contacts with rangers. There is another possibility if you are working UN because UN has military compound in Rwindi from where complète savannah if park is seen. The prominent animals which can be seen here are antelopes , baboons and some birds. If you are lucky you can also see elephants and some predators . For more information , you can directly message me .
Steve Roese One of the most beautiful places on earth. The people, the landscape and the views will cling to you eyes and heart drawing you back time and again. The trek up Nyiragongo is tough but worth every grueling step. The gorillas plentiful, wild and heart stompingly close and real. And then there is the Kibumba Eco Lodge where the staff, accommodations, views and food will please even the most sophisticated adventurer. Don’t miss this place. Just don’t.