班科国家公园(Parc National du Banco)坐落于科特迪瓦经济中心阿比让(Abidjan)的腹地,是世界上少数位于城市中心的原始热带雨林。这片保护区占地约3474公顷,早在1953年就被正式列为国家公园。对于在阿比让忍受了连日交通拥堵和湿热气候的游客来说,这里更像是一个天然的降温氧吧。开车从喧闹的阿佳梅(Adjamé)区出发,只需要几分钟时间,窗外的景象就会从破旧的巴士和嘈杂的集市变成遮天蔽日的参天巨树。
说真的,班科国家公园最魔幻的地方在于它的地理位置。你很难想象在阿比让这样一个拥有超过500万人口的特大城市里,竟然还保留着如此完整的原始生态。公园紧邻连接市内各区的交通要道,南侧就是繁忙的高速公路。当你踏入大门的那一刻,城市特有的那种尘土味和尾气味会瞬间消失,取而代之的是混合了泥土清香和腐烂落叶的雨林气息。这种从极度喧嚣到绝对静谧的切换,是班科带给旅行者的第一道感官冲击。
这片森林不仅仅是用来散步的,它更被当地人称为阿比让的生命之源。整个班科国家公园就像一块巨大的海绵,不仅调节着整座城市的微气候,还通过地下径流为城市提供了大量饮用水。这里的森林覆盖率极高,几乎全部被原生雨林占据,很多老树的树干粗到需要三四个人合抱。相比于科特迪瓦境内那些遥不可及的原始森林,班科提供了一个在市区就能观察西非雨林微缩景观的绝佳窗口。
公园里名气最大的地方莫过于中央区域的植物园。这里集中展示了超过800种热带树种,其中不乏很多昂贵的红木和具有药用价值的古老植物。每棵重点树木旁通常都设有简单的标识牌,虽然大多是法语,但那股原始的生命力是不分国界的。走进植物园深处,阳光被层层叠叠的叶片过滤,洒在布满青苔的地面上,非常适合带上相机拍一些富有纵深感的森林大片。不过这里的蚊虫确实不少,建议出发前一定要在裸露的皮肤上喷足驱蚊水。
班科内部拥有一个长达80公里左右的步道网络。这些道路大多是碎石路或平整的土路,难度并不高。你可以选择在入口处租一辆山地车,也可以用双脚丈量这片土地。从入口走到核心的野餐区大约需要一个多小时。路途中偶尔会遇到在路边休息的当地护林员,打个招呼说声Bonjour,他们通常会很乐意指引方向。如果运气够好,你还能在溪流边看到正在洗衣服的洗衣匠。这种人文景观与自然森林的融合,是科特迪瓦最地道的烟火气。
必须得说实话,如果你是抱着去看狮子大象的心态来班科,那大概率会失望。班科的魅力在于植物的多样性和宁静的氛围。这里确实栖息着一些猴群,比如黑白疣猴,但它们通常躲在高耸的树冠层,只能听到叫声或看到晃动的树枝。对于观鸟爱好者来说,这里倒是天堂,成百上千种鸟类在林间穿梭,清晨时的鸟鸣声非常壮观。至于早年间传闻中的黑猩猩,由于城市扩张带来的栖息地压力,现在想要见到它们确实需要极大的运气。建议把注意力放在那些奇异的昆虫和巨大的热带蝴蝶身上,它们才是这里真正的主人。
钱的问题也得算清楚,班科的门票政策对外国游客和本地居民有明显区别。目前外国成人的票价通常为5000西非法郎(约合人民币60元),而本地人只需1000西非法郎。请务必保留好收据,有时在园内遇到巡逻员会进行抽查。交通方面,最省心的方式是从阿比让市区直接打车(红色出租车)前往,告诉司机去Parc du Banco即可。如果要省钱,可以坐去往约普贡(Yopougon)方向的小巴,在公园路口下车。至于时间,最好选在12月到次年2月的旱季,此时徒步路径不会泥泞不堪,体感也相对干爽一些。
去班科千万别穿凉拖或者短裙。雨林里的植被繁茂,有些叶子边缘非常锋利,而且地上的蚂蚁和虫子可能会让你防不胜防。一双抓地力好的运动鞋和长裤是标配。此外,园内几乎没有像样的商店或自动售货机,所以一定要在进园前带够饮用水和简单的干粮。有些区域比较偏僻,建议结伴而行,或者在门口请一位持证的专业导游带路。虽然这会额外增加几千西法的开销,但他们能帮你发现那些隐藏在树丛里的动植物细节,绝对物超所值。出发前别忘了查看一下当地天气预报,如果遇到突发大雨,雨林里的视线和路况会变得非常糟糕。
在主要的徒步路径和植物园区域,安全状况通常良好,建议在下午4点之前离开,因为森林里天黑得非常快。尽量不要携带大量现金或昂贵的珠宝,保持低调并结伴而行是基本的户外常识。
非科特迪瓦籍的外国成年游客票价为5000西非法郎。如果你持有当地居留证,票价会有大幅优惠,建议随身带上证件复印件以备查验。
如果只是想走主路散散步,自己走完全没问题。但如果你想深入丛林、了解那800多种树木背后的故事,或者寻找隐秘的猴群,建议在门口雇佣一名官派导游,费用通常可以议价。
公园内部只有极其简陋的野餐区,并没有正式的餐厅或咖啡馆。建议出发前在阿比让市区买好三明治和水,在森林中心的长椅上享受一顿原生态的野餐,但记得带走所有垃圾。建议出发前查看官网最新信息以获取设施更新动态。
Dani Nehme This park can give you a good idea of what a forest in Ivory Coast looks like. It has many hiking tracks of different levels and distances Accessible by car and is a joy to drive through It has an entrance fee for persons or cars No animals and is very safe
David Chapman Beautiful, peaceful, safe, well maintained trails, tropical and lush forest. Saw monkeys, forest squirrels, lots of butterflies, spiders and lizards. All this without even walking too far into the main trail. The interactivity such as maps, trail info, etc could definitely be improved as well as the toilet facilities at entrance. Local tuk tuk guides are available as well as bicycles for rental.
ADEREMI TOSIN It was a wonderful place to visit if you are in Cote D'Ivoire or planning to be here. Our instructor(Mr Romaric) his wonderful and he did a wonderful job for us but we need English instructor because of does of us that didn't understand french very well. Thank you for accommodate us. International shalom grace school, (English school) say thank you so much. See you next time
Martha Chukwu A nice place for cycling, running, picnicking, camping, and other outdoor activities. The entrance is a long distance from the forest; cars can drive in and there are bicycles for rent at the park entry. There is a small museum and a pond with big fishes. Different species of plants, birds and insects.The park has a restaurant but you can come with your meals if you wish. The entry fee is less for persons from the ECOWAS region. In all, it was a nice experience
Ana Costa The inconspicuous entrance to the park, just off the highway, does not give away what you will find past the gates. Around 5 minutes into the walk, completely surrounded by nature, the sound of the bustling city starts to fade away and you slowly adapt and take-in the sounds of nature, birds chirping and leaves rustling under the soft rain. My guide spoke no English and we had to make do with my (very) elementary French. He told me about some of the plant and tree species, but he was not a very chatty guy. I asked a few questions about the governor who once lived in the park -- his house nowadays is where the "museum" is located. It has a few monkey and crocodile skulls, an elephant skull, and some information on the park (only in French). If you want to visit it, you have to ask the guide, as he needs to get the key. Take comfortable shoes, as the shortest trail is 7km long (but it's fairly easy). People are allowed to have a picnic (and make a barbecue) in the park, and, if permission is given, you can also put up a tent for the night. There is a playground for the kids near the picnic area. Entry fee for non-ECOWAS (Economic Community of West African States) is 5000 CFA + 10000 CFA for the guide (optional), which I considered expensive. My guided tour took around an hour and a half, which I consider short, especially for the price paid, but do not regret going, as it was good way to spend the morning and take some time off from the bustling vibe of Abidjan. Mind that if you need to take a taxi there, it is virtually impossible to hail one at the entrance once you are finished, so I would suggest that you agree with your driver to wait for you.