让-巴约尔广场花园(Jardin Place Jean Bayol)坐落在贝宁行政首都波多诺伏(Porto-Novo)的核心地带,海拔约三十八米,距离著名的大清真寺(Great Mosque of Porto-Novo)仅有几百米的路程。这个花园不仅仅是当地市民纳凉的绿地,更承载着法属殖民时期与波多诺伏王国交汇的厚重历史。多数游客会选择把这里作为老城徒步的中转站,顺便瞻仰那座标志性的托法国王(King Toffa)塑像。
这片绿地之所以命名为让-巴约尔,是为了纪念十九世纪末在该地区活跃的法国殖民官员。不过对于本地人来说,花园里最显眼的符号还是托法国王的全身雕像。托法一世是波多诺伏历史上极其关键的人物,他在1882年与法国签署了保护条约,这直接决定了这座城市后来的政治走向。站在塑像下,你能感受到那种新旧时代剧烈碰撞的余韵,这里曾被称为托法广场,至今仍是本地民族情感的聚集地。
环顾四周,你会发现让-巴约尔广场花园被一圈极具时代感的建筑包围。南侧不远处就是具有典型巴西风格的大清真寺,这种色彩斑斓的建筑风格是当年从巴西归来的获释奴隶带回来的。西边则是曾经的王宫,也就是现在的洪梅博物馆(Musee Honme)。这种行政办公楼、宗教圣地与皇家遗迹共处一街区的布局,让这个不到一公顷的绿地成了观察贝宁社会结构的绝佳窗口。
波多诺伏的气候常年闷热,三月份的气温往往会突破三十五摄氏度。如果你打算在广场的长椅上坐会儿,最好带上一瓶在路边小摊买的冰镇姜汁。每年十一月到次年二月是当地的旱季,这时候天空蓝得透彻,虽然偶尔会有撒哈拉沙漠吹来的哈马丹风(Harmattan)带来些许尘土,但总好过雨季时突如其来的暴雨把花园的小径变得泥泞不堪。
想要到达广场,最地道的方式是招一辆被称为摩的(Zemidjan)的小摩托,从波多诺伏汽车站过来大概只需要五百西非法郎。下车后,你会发现这里没有大城市那种嘈杂,反而透着一种行政首都特有的静谧。花园本身并不收门票,全天二十四小时开放,但考虑到采光和安全,建议在下午五点之前结束游览。你可以从这里出发,步行前往北侧不远处的国民议会大厦,感受贝宁现代政治的心跳。
这个广场属于市政公共空间,不需要购买门票,游客可以随时免费进入参观拍照。不过如果你想进入广场斜对面的洪梅博物馆,则需要另行支付约二千五百西非法郎的门票,建议出发前查看官网或现场确认最新票价。
两座城市距离约三十五公里,路况较好时开车大概一小时就能到。要是遇上早晚高峰或者路段施工,耗时可能翻倍,建议避开工作日上午八点的出行高峰。如果乘坐当地的大巴车,票价通常在八百到一千西非法郎之间。
广场步行五分钟范围内有不少当地餐馆,主要售卖木薯泥配鱼汁。想要环境好一点,可以往北走一公里左右,靠近政府办公区的地方有几家提供法式简餐的小店,人均消费大约在五千西非法郎上下,大部分店铺在周日会选择闭店休息。
Reuben Zadeh Closed for a 5 year renovation with will probably take 20!
Proschia Awinimi One of the Iconic landmark as your enter Porto Novo is the Statue of King Toffa , the great ruler I loved how the space was big with enough seating areas for visitors
olamilekan toyib King Toffa I (c.1850-1908) was a ruler of the kingdom of Hogbonu, or Ajase, an area of Benin which today is known as Porto-Novo. Upon becoming ruler in 1874, he was renowned for his openness and cooperation with the colonial powers. He encouraged his employees to attend French schools to receive western education and was also tolerant of Islam and Christianity entering the country and coexisting with traditional endogenous religions such as Animism or Orisha. The place is full of educational thing. Also full of moral
Jean-Claude Zossou Located at the entrance to Porto-Novo, this square houses the premises of the city’s Tourist Office, which welcomes and guides you. In a few minutes, be told the story of Xogbonou.
Abdias PATINVOH One of the important historical monuments of the city, Jardin Place Jean Bayol portrays a statue that represents the first king of the city. Learn about the city's past and the monument, which stands on a pedestal peering off into the distance. Walk around the park and observe local life within the atmostphere of the garden.