贝尼哈马德堡垒(Al Qal'a of Beni Hammad)坐落在阿尔及利亚北部姆西拉省(M'Sila)的马阿迪德山脉中,这里海拔接近1000米。作为哈马德王朝在1007年建立的首个都城,它在1980年就被联合国教科文组织列入世界遗产名录。现在的遗址虽然只剩下断壁残垣,但规模宏大的古城轮廓依然清晰。从最近的城市姆西拉驱车前往大约需要30分钟,这处遗迹见证了北非穆斯林文明在11世纪的鼎盛时期。
当初哈马德王朝的创始人哈马德·本·博洛金选择在这里建都,主要看中了这里的地势。整个古城背靠陡峭的山脉,三面环绕着深深的沟壑,形成了一个天然的防御屏障。你在山脚下抬头看时,能感受到那种居高临下的压迫感。这座城市在11世纪时非常繁华,曾是地中海地区重要的商贸和文化中心。即便在1152年被莫哈德王朝摧毁后,这里留下的地基和墙壁依然能让人想象出当年的宏伟场面。
这里是阿尔及利亚最早入选世界遗产名录的地点之一。相比于蒂巴扎(Tipaza)等临海遗迹,贝尼哈马德堡垒的游客稀少得多。这反而给想要安静看历史的人留出了空间。现场的维护状态比较原始,大部分地方都是裸露的土石结构。你走在遗址中心,脚下踩的是跨越千年的碎砖,四周是土红色的荒凉山脊。这种荒芜感是去那些修缮完美的景点体会不到的,甚至连空气里都带着一种干燥的灰尘味道。
古城里最扎眼的建筑莫过于大清真寺的宣礼塔。这座塔现在还保留着大约25米的高度,它是阿尔及利亚保存最完好的早期穆斯林建筑组件之一。清真寺本身的占地面积非常惊人,在11世纪时这里能容纳成千上万的人祈祷。你走近塔身能看到精细的砖石拼贴工艺,这些装饰风格直接影响了后来摩洛哥和西班牙地区的摩尔式建筑。有些细节如果不仔细看可能会错过,比如塔身侧面那些窄小的窗口,都是为了采光和防御双重目的设计的。
遗址内的皇宫区域同样规模庞大。被称为湖泊宫(Dar el Bahr)的地方最为出名,因为这里曾经有一个巨大的矩形水池。根据历史记载,当年的王室甚至会在这个水池里进行小型帆船演习。水池的边长接近67米,现在的遗迹虽然干涸了,但周围的石砌边缘依然能辨认出来。旁边不远处的灯塔宫也是当年的核心建筑。走在这片宫殿群里,你会发现当时的供水系统设计得非常巧妙,即便在干旱的山区也能维持庞大的宫廷日常消耗。
去这里游玩通常以姆西拉市作为中转站。从姆西拉市中心租个出租车是目前最靠谱的办法,往返费用大约在1500到2000阿尔及利亚第纳尔之间,记得跟司机说好包含等待的时间。路况在出城后会变得比较崎岖,山路弯道很多,如果晕车的话最好提前做点准备。说真的,阿尔及利亚的公共交通在偏远景区不太给力,自己打车虽然贵一点,但能省下在路边暴晒等车的时间。如果是从阿尔及尔出发,单程车程大概要4到5个小时,建议在姆西拉住一个晚上。
海拔1000米意味着这里的温差很大。最好的游玩时间是每年的4月、5月或者10月。夏天这里晒得要命,气温经常突破40摄氏度,而且遗址里几乎没有任何遮阳的地方。如果你打算冬天去,早晚一定要带件厚外套,山里的风刮起来冷得刺骨。还有一点很重要,景区里没有正儿八经的饭店或者商店,建议出发前在姆西拉的超市买好至少2升水和一些顶饱的面包。穿一双防滑耐磨的运动鞋是必须的,因为很多地方需要踩着碎石坡往上爬,普通平底鞋在这里很容易打滑。
目前的门票价格大约是130阿尔及利亚第纳尔,对于外国游客来说非常便宜。售票处有时会在午饭时间关门休息,建议避开中午12点到下午2点这段时间到达。如果你需要请一名当地讲解员,费用通常需要另外商量,大约在500到1000第纳尔左右。
从阿尔及尔往返贝尼哈马德堡垒全程超过450公里,单程驾车就需要接近5小时。如果一天内往返,你会有10个小时在车上,实际游览时间不到2小时,体力消耗极大。更建议的行程是先到姆西拉或者布阿拉里季堡住一晚,第二天清晨前往遗址,这样玩起来才不至于太赶。
这里的旅游设施非常简陋,几乎没有像样的洗手间或游客中心。遗址入口处有个简易的小摊位卖点瓶装水,但经常断货,厕所的卫生条件也不尽如人意。去之前最好在姆西拉的加油站解决个人问题,并带齐所有必需的饮用水和食物。
Hamza Mekki Much to be said, yet, the place is relatively far from the city of Msila, if you wish to catch the bus to Maadid, where this fort is located, you better be there early (7AM ) since few lines go through this region, I had to take a cab. I advise you to start first by the museum then you move to the fort, 20mn on foot. It s worth it !
Rabah Lm A nice place for history lovers
Sam Tls wonderful place. You get a strange feeling through the arid nature of its terrain. Honestly, I had a feeling as if the place was so full of memories that I could imagine the traces of a person not far away as if it was just a few hours ago. Feeling crazy too
Harsh Soni Beni Hammad Fort, also called Al Qal'a of Beni Hammad (Arabic: قلعة بني حماد) is a fortified palatine city in Algeria. Now in ruins, in the 11th century, it served as the first capital of the Hammadid dynasty. It is in the Hodna Mountains northeast of M'Sila, at an elevation of 1,418 metres (4,652 ft), and receives abundant water from the surrounding mountains. Beni Hammad Fort is near the town of Maadid (aka Maadhid), about 225 kilometres (140 mi) southeast of Algiers, in the Maghreb. In 1980, it was inscribed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and described as "an authentic picture of a fortified Muslim city". The town includes a 7-kilometre (4 mi) long line of walls. Inside the walls are four residential complexes, and the largest mosque built in Algeria after that of Mansurah. It is similar in design to the Grand Mosque of Kairouan, with a tall minaret, 20 metres (66 ft). Excavations have brought to light numerous terracotta, jewels, coins and ceramics testifying to the high level of civilization under the Hammadid dynasty. Also among the artifacts discovered are several decorative fountains using the lion as a motif. The remains of the emir's palace, known as Dal al-Bahr, include three separate residences separated by gardens and pavilions. The fortress was built in 1007 by Hammad ibn Buluggin, the son of Buluggin ibn Ziri, the founder of Algiers. The city became the capital of the Hammadid Berbers, and sustained a siege from the Zirid in 1017. In 1090 it was abandoned under the menace of the Banu Hilal, and was partly destroyed by the Almohads in 1152.
Jalwin Johnson The Al Qal'a of Beni Hammad is an archeological site in Algeria, which was the first capital of the Hammadid empire. It was founded in 1007 and destroyed in 1152. The Qal'a (Fortress) is located at more than 1,000m altitude. The town includes a 7 km-long line of walls. Inside the walls are four residential complexes, and the second largest mosque in Algeria. The remains of the emir's palace, known as Dal al-Bahr, include three separate residences separated by gardens and pavilions. Excavations have brought to light numerous terracotta, jewels, coins and ceramics testifying to the high level of civilization under the Hammadid dynasty.